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Posted: 3/17/2010 3:58:02 PM By Twinkle VanWinkle | 0 comments | Transcript
Episode 66 — Listen! The Angie’s List podcast
Interview with Dr. Jacqueline Soule of Tucson, Ariz. Soule is a horticulturist and gardening writer who writes for Angie’s List Magazine from Tucson.
Feb. 19, 2010

Angie’s List: Can you state your name, location and what you do for the record, please?
Jacqueline Soule: My name is Jacqueline A. Soule. Technically that is Dr. Soule, but most people call me Jacqueline. I’m located in Tucson, Ariz., where I write about gardening throughout the Southwest.

AL: Can you elaborate on why gardening is different in your area than in other parts of the country?
JS: What is unique about gardening here in the Southwest is first and foremost it gets hot in the summer, really hot — 100 degrees. North Dakota gets 100 degrees, but it won’t do that for 100 days in a row. The other big difference is our soils are alkaline. Most soils are more acidic. Plants prefer to be in more acidic soils. Even our desert native plants. They kind of cluster together out in the wilderness and share the acid they make by dropping their leaves. The big difference is the soil and the heat.

AL: If I had never gardened in your region before, what is one easy way to get started?
JS: The easy way to get started here in the Southwest is to visit an actual nursery, not an actual big box store, but an actual little nursery. Wander around and look at the plants. See what you like. Or maybe even take a walk around your neighborhood. If you see somebody out in their garden, talk to them. There are a number of gardening clubs throughout the greater Phoenix area that you could join or just even go to one meeting and see if you like it. It’s a great way to get your feet wet, see what’s out there and listen to some of the problems others have and find reasons how to resolve them.

AL: What are the planting seasons for your region? Is it all year-round or are there specific times when you should plant different things?
JS: The best time to plant plants, that are perennial plants, is in the fall. It will give them a good chance to get established as the weather cools down. Get their roots spread out through the ground. Then it’s at least six months before it hits 100 again. Fall is the best time for planting. The next best would be February and March. After that it’s just very hard for plants to get established. There is one exception to that. That is the cacti. Most of them are winter dormant and it’s much better to plant them in the spring in April and May. But most things prefer a fall planting.

AL: What native plants do you recommend for landscaping?
JS: I might recommend a little free booklet you can get online. It’s from the Arizona Municipal Water Users Association: amwua.org. The book is called Landscape plants throughout the Arizona desert. I was the technical writer on this book, and we wrote it several years ago, but it is still very, very valid for the Phoenix region. For trees, if you want a large shade tree, the mesquite trees work very well in our area. If you have a smaller yard and you want a smaller tree, the desert willow is very nice and has very gorgeous pink and purple flowers. However the desert willow should not be planted anywhere near a pool because it will drop those flowers constantly into the pool. For shrubs, it depends what color you like. Some of them flower in yellow and some of them flower in red. If you like red and you like hummingbirds the Baja Fairy duster is a very nice option. If you don’t like red at all, the Texas Olive with white flowers is a nice shrub. If you have rabbits that are eating your yard, the Turpentine Bush with yellow flowers makes a very nice addition. Other plants that do well in our climate tend to be plants from other desert areas. One example that is a plant from the deserts of China is the Lady Banks Rose, starting to flower in March and April throughout the valley. It’s not ideally adapted. You do have to add some water, because the Chinese deserts don’t get quite as hot as ours, but you’re not limited to native plants by any means.

AL: How do you recommend ridding your yard of weeds?
JS: To get rid of weeds in your yard, I’m reminded of what one of my plant science professors said: “No weed can withstand cold, hard steel.” Particularly in these days of hazardous chemicals and just how long do they last in the soul, the best thing is just to get to recognize what weeds are and just pull them. If pulling weeds is not ideal for you for whatever reason, there are a number of chemical products you can use, including pre-emergent herbicides. Pre-emergent herbicides can be used where you have rock mulch and your landscape is already established. They interfere with the oxygen uptake of seedlings and prevent them from growing. They also will stunt the growth of established plants. You would only do a pre-emergent in a landscape that’s already and fully matured.

AL: What are some other uses for mulch?
JS: One of the drawbacks of gardening in this area is the heat and the baking sun. One way to overcome that is by putting down mulch. A lot of people use rock mulch. Back in the ’60s and ’50s when the research was done, they said, “Oh this works!“ Unfortunately, newer research shows that the rock mulch makes it harder for some plants to withstand the heat. Now we are starting to say again – we, meaning the plant scientist community – really the best thing to put under that plant is the leaves that fall off that plant. We are going back to having tree wells around trees and letting the leaf litter accumulate in those tree wells. Unfortunately there are a lot of homeowner’s associations that don’t believe that looks very good. They like that gravel mulch in the front yard. In that case what you can do is plant ground covers under your trees. Help them cover the ground and that eliminates the need for a rock mulch. The problem with rock mulch is they heat up the ground. They also heat up the air. They release that heat into the environment around your home all night long. You end up running your air conditioner a lot more than you realize you otherwise have to.

AL: What are some methods you use to conserve water in your garden/yard?
JS: Water conservation is a big issue. Although the prices haven’t gone up in awhile. It’s still a good idea to conserve water. One of the easiest ways to do this is to harvest the water, so to speak, that runs off your roof. That is done by planting the higher water use plants by the house. That’s a very passive way of saving water. The rain waters them when it comes. Other than that, getting back to the mulch, planting ground covers that shade the soil actually help save water. Even though there are more plants in your landscape, they are saving water that otherwise would simply evaporate. One new system that’s been developed is a lot of people are putting the drip emitters if they have an irrigation system. You put the drip emitters about 6 inches under the soil. The water gravity will pull the water down and plant roots go down as well. So by burying your emitters is one big step you can take towards water conservation.

AL: Anything you would like to add? Any advice for new gardeners?
JS: For new gardeners or longtime gardeners in the area, or just people who want to take care of their yards, the thing to remember is you are paying the mortgage and the taxes. It’s your yard. If you really don’t like certain plants, don’t plant them. Don’t plant them because your neighbor has them. I see people do this often enough. If you really don’t like low-water plants, if they all just look ugly to you, then put your front yard where it will please your homeowner’s association but enjoy your background. An appropriate sized lawn is part of xeroscaping. You just don’t need the whole front yard in lawn. You don’t go out and play there. It is your land, do what you like with it. But if the water prices go up, you are going to be really happy to have some natives.

Posted: 1/18/2010 8:00:00 AM By Twinkle VanWinkle | 0 comments | Transcript
Twinkle VanWinkle, online content producer
Interview with Andy Etzel, owner, Porcelite Bathtub Refinishing, Plymouth, Minn.
Jan. 5, 2010

Twinkle VanWinkle: Can you state your name, business and location for the record?
Andy Etzel: I’m Andy Etzel. I’m the owner-operator of Porcelite Bathtub and Refinishing Company. What we do is go in and take your old dingy tub and spray new glaze on it to make it smooth and bring the color back and it’s easier to keep clean. It gives it a fresh look, helps with resale purposes or if you’re just looking to spruce up the bathroom.

TVW: What are your specialties?
AE: [Our specialty is] reglazing. We also install acrylic liners. We also resurface countertops, tile floors, as well as resurfacing tile, too.

TVW: How did you get into the tub business?
AE: When I was done with school looking for something to do, we actually ended up buying this company from the original owner who started this company in 1976. We bought it 10 years ago. It was my father-in-law and myself. We’re in business together.

TVW: Have you seen resurgence in recycling older tubs? Or historic restoration?
AE: Business is really good. For the 10 years I have been doing it myself, business has been really busy. It’s been really steady. As far as this year’s concerned, there’s been a little bit of an increase because I think a lot of people are fixing versus replacing, where a lot of times people will tear out and put new stuff in. This year with economy the way it is a lot of people are just resurfacing. It’s much cheaper. It looks the same a brand new bathtub when it’s done and it lasts 15 to 20 years. It’s a lot more economical to do it that way.

TVW: What is an average charge for reglazing?
AE: I charge $425 to reglaze a standard-sized bathtub that has never been done before and doesn’t have too much damage as far as chips or deep scratches are concerned. A typical bathtub that needs reglazing is deglossed, it’s tough to clean, it may have little bit of a rough surface to it, might have stains in it. That is all done for $425. If there is multiple chips to fix or a real big damaged area either from erosion or [whatnot], I have to charge anywhere from about $10 to maybe $35 at the most to fill that will a special epoxy that I mix up and put in there and sand smooth.

TVW: You said you also do liners? What’s the difference?
AE: We’ve been installing liners for about five years now. We bought a franchise from a guy down in Atlanta. Liners do serve their purpose, they have a great durability as far as something dropping on them. They are acrylic so they give. The problem I have with liners is that they are terribly expensive for what they are. We charge $1,100 to reline a bathtub. For reglazing at that $425, you can get a reglazing two times for the price of that liner. I put a lot of liners in apartment buildings where they have no control of how the bathroom is cared for. As far as a residential customer goes, I usually try to steer them into reglazing. You keep your original looking tub. It will last a good 15 to 20 years. With a typical liner you should get all that, maybe a little more. But you’re not going to get a ton more life out of it, so it’s usually not cost effective that way.

TVW: Which one do you recommend more? Liners or reglazing.
AE: Again it depends on the situation or what the tub is going to be used for. Mostly I try to reglaze as much as I can only because it’s more cost effective to my customers. Like I said apartment buildings I usually put liners in because they have no control of how it’s going to be used or cared for. Tenants tend to not clean it very often and drop things in there quite a bit. So the owner doesn’t have to worry. I really only install liners mostly for apartments and reglaze mostly for residential use.

TVW: How would you recommend a customer clean their newly reglazed or lined tub?
AE: Basically I give them a list of cleaners when I’m done. On my sheet I recommend if it has been refinished, use household cleaners made for porcelain, but also you don’t want to use a cleaner you have to wear rubber gloves for. The reason is that it usually has chlorine or bleach or ammonia or vinegar or some other form of an acid that is caustic to porcelain, which is a glass and you can etch it over time. Most people don’t realize that kind of an acid will etch the porcelain that isn’t rinsed off well enough afterwards and that’s what causes it to dull out over time and get harder and harder to clean. You’re kind of opening the pores of the porcelain and you are deglossing the finish. It tends to trap dirt more. A lot of that stuff is OK to use on ceramic tile where porcelain is not because porcelain etches a lot easier than ceramic tile would. So anything labeled safe for porcelain. A general rule is as long as you don’t have to wear rubber gloves with it. I recommend Lysol tub and tile, Mr. Clean, Fantastic, Scrubbing Bubbles. Those are all good. I tend to stay away from Soft Scrub, Comet, Ajax, for obvious reasons. And that spray stuff that you spray on the bathtub walls and walk away from is terrible. It has usually a lot of chlorine in it and ends up putting streaks in the bathtub. I’ve had companies ask me to refinish those because they have ruined a brand new bathtub.

TVW: Is there a point when you just have to say, “Hey, it’s time to get a new tub?”
AE: I’ve actually never found a tub I can’t refinish or line. It can be done an infinite number of times. There is an additional fee to strip an old finish off a tub. I charge $150 to strip a tub to get down to the original finish. Although for some apartment buildings that want me to refinish instead of just lining the tub, I’ll actually just come in about every five or six years and redo them again. I don’t have to restrip them again. I can just sand them and go over the old finish. Yes, there is no limited amount of times.

TVW: What would you say is some of the most damaging things a homeowner can do to their tub to ruin the porcelain?
AE: Leaving shampoo bottles in the corners. That really tends to hold moisture in the corners and stain the corners over time. Really it’s the cleaners that are used on them. Most people don’t realize it’s the cleaner that has that caustic material in them. Ninety-nine percent of the time that’s why I am there redoing because the tub has lost it’s shine or it’s been ruined that way, or there is a stain in the corner they can’t get out. Those couple of things are probably the biggest culprits for the need to redo a tub.

TVW: What are some questions you would advise a homeowner to ask when hiring someone to reglaze or reline his or her tub?
AE: I hear these horror stories out there from these companies that don’t do it properly. I would ask how long they have been in business in their area, not just in general. There is just so many franchises out there that just start up and they come and go. Make sure they’ve been doing it for quite awhile. Ask what kind of materials they are using. Generally with this kind of process you get what you pay for. The cheaper companies tend to use the cheaper materials just because the cost to us has gone up significantly. We’ve been raising our costs as well to keep up with it. But there are companies that will come in there for almost half of what I charge and I would really tend to not use those kind of places only because you can almost expect it to not get nearly the life out of it as you would if it’s done properly with the proper material.

TVW: Have you seen a rise in historical restorations in bathtubs?
AE: Almost all of my work is in the downtown area where it’s older homes — homes that are at least 50 to 100 years old. That’s obviously the majority of my work, although I have done bathtubs that haven’t even been used yet. If you used the wrong chemical or drain cleaner that can ruin them right away. Definitely the majority is older tubs, people that want to keep that nice, deep tub where most of them that you buy nowadays are a lot shallower or they are fiberglass or acrylic versus cast iron or porcelain. So they want to keep that old look to the house or they don’t want to take a wall out or whatever to put a new bathtub in.

TVW: So can you tell me how much it costs to replace a bathtub?
AE: Obviously I am not in that line of work but I have been told from some people that the low is about $2,000. It really depends on the quality of materials you put in and who you hire to do the work. I actually did a bathroom for a couple in Minneapolis here that they put $100,000 into the bathroom and I actually ended up reglazing the claw-foot tub that was in there. That didn’t even include the bathtub. So it just really depends on the materials the people use and the workmanship.



Twinkle VanWinkle, online content producer
Interview with Paul Burns, President, Porcelain Tub Restorations, Bowie, Md.
Jan. 6, 2010

Twinkle VanWinkle: Can you state your name, company and location for the record?
Paul Burns: My name is Paul Burns. We are in Bowie Md. We service the Washington, D.C., Baltimore, and northern Virginia metro area.
The company is Porcelain Tub Restorations and we do bathtub and surround refinishing. I am the president.




TVW: What is your specialty?

PB: Budget bathroom renovations done in a day.



TVW: How did you get into the business of restoring older bathrooms, refitting or reglazing?
PB: I always knew I wanted to be in business, but lacked the capital as a younger man. My background has been mechanics, auto painting and a sideline doing home improvement. During a management change at my day job in 1988 as head painter at a local auto dealership, the entire crew was let go as they brought in their own people. I took what I thought to be a temporary job at refinishing bathtubs for a local company. With my skill set I was immediately put in the residential department. After a short bit I realized that I could afford the capital and equipment to start my own refinishing company and I did just that. Within a few years my company grew so much I started hiring and training techs to my standards. Twenty years later we now have a dozen trucks on the road serving most of Maryland, D.C., and northern Virginia.

TVW: Have you seen a decrease or increase in retrofitting or remodeling with older bathtubs?
PB: Definitely an increase, we have grown 10 percent every year since we started. It’s a great way to recycle your bathroom fixtures, making them look new again at a fraction of the cost of replacement or tub liners and also can be done in one day. Also the older bathtubs are often of better quality. There is one problem with new tubs. In 1990 the Americans with Disabilities Act forced many changes — one being all new bathtubs must have a non-slip surface. When you buy a new tub today, it already has a bottom that can stain due to the manufacturers non-slip surface that is an open, porous area on the bottom. Within a week of using it, the tub’s bottom will be soiled from the oils in your feet and soap residue and it will be difficult to keep clean. Refinishing avoids this by adding a texture to our coating during the process.

TVW: What is an average cost for replacement?
PB: The real costs are tearing out the walls and floor tile due to the new tub being a different shape. There is also the disconnecting the plumbing, removal and disposal of the existing tub, re-installing the tub, new vapor barrier, concrete backer board, new plumbing and control valves and retiling. So depending on quality of materials used and bathroom size, an average bathtub replacement will run two to five thousand and take at least a week to do.

TVW: 
For reglazing?
PB:
For a standard size tub that has normal wear and tear or color change and depending on what part of the country you are in, also the quality of the refinisher, pricing will range from $300 to $500. In the lower price range, you should realize that the company is using low cost materials, skimping on the preparation and cheap labor to offer the lower price. Also they will not cover their warranty by sighting the problem on the customers care as a way to avoid any cost to them. Our charges are very competitive for bathtub reglazing. At $425, we include re-caulking and we add a texture to the bottom to aid in slip prevention at no extra charge. We also stand behind our warranty 100 percent. Tile or surrounds are priced at $9 per square foot and would be approximately $450 for your standard 50 square foot surround. Both can be done in one day.

If the tub or surround has been previously reglazed before it is always recommended to remove the failed finish before applying a new one so stripping charges may apply and would add an addition hundred to a bathtub reglazing job or about $250 to a tub and surround job. There is one additional item I highly recommend and that none of my competitors will mention: the drain and overflow removal. It’s the perfect time to replace your bathtub drain at the time of refinishing. It simply makes for the best job. I can assure you that when I did my own bathtub the drain was pulled and then a new one was re-installed once the job had cured. Why? Two reasons: No. 1, aesthetics and No. 2, the mechanics of coatings. Aesthetically, an old, faded drain will really look out of place against a newly refinished bathtub. It’s the perfect time to replace it. Should your old drain overflow be in great shape it can be re-installed saving you replacement cost.

When a coating is applied, its weakest point is its edges. An edge is a point that can be pushed against. In this case when you refinish your bathtub and you do not pull the drain, there will be a coating edge around the drain versus having the material under your drain with no edge. The force of water flowing over that edge, plus the contraction and expansion of the drain itself, going through hot and cold cycles, are two forces pushing against the edge and can cause premature failure of the coating. Once a coating starts to lift from these forces it can continue to lift and we call this peeling. A coating that could have gone 15 years can fail way short of this life span. When there is rust, soap, bathing oils or moisture trapped under the drain, no amount of preparations is going to remove it unless the drain is pulled. This can prevent any coating from sealing properly around the drain. I have seen coatings go a long time without removing the drains, but it’s a gamble. If rust is under the drain, it will eventually come back if not completely removed and treated before reglazing, causing the material around the drain to blister and peel. We offer removal and re-installation of the drain overflow for $150 and it requires a return trip. The customers may be able to do this themselves if they are handy, but a plumber will be twice that. With the drain removed, we offer a five-year “No Quibble” guarantee, meaning if you have a problem we will simply take care of it. A typical standard tub and surround reglazing with the drain removed can be completed for right around $1,000. Additional services are rust hole repair, failed liner removal, soggy wall repair, re-grouting, cracked fiberglass tub repair, chip repair and erosion damage.

TVW: What about liners?
PB: Bathtub liners come in several grades of material and thickness. One material is PVC. It is softer and scratches more readily, and it tends to yellow over time. The other is acrylic — much tougher but costly. The cheaper liners will also be thinner. The other factor with liners is the tendency to flex and pull away from the wall breaking the seal, allowing water to get underneath, which is why I see most liner companies insisting on adding a surround as well, driving the price sky high. A PVC bathtub liner installed will run about $1,000. With a wall surround liner and depending on the options ordered, add another $1,500 minimum. Should you decided on acrylic tub and surround liner you can expect to double that price to $4,000 or $5,000.

TVW: What do you do when you are reglazing?
PB: Well, the process is, generally, when we get to the tub it has an erosion layer, the shine is gone. It usually has some scratch and chips form just wear and tear, or they have some 1960s colors they are trying to get rid of. So basically, when we go into a job, we’ll take the caulk out. We also like to remove the drain and overflow. You get a much better job when the drain has been pulled. The tub is etched with a mild acid that we dilute on the job. It’s a glass etch. What it does is remove any foreign material and it gets the tub etched for adhesion. Then the chips or scratches are worked out with diamond abrasives or fillers, depending on the damage. Once the tub has been etched, all the damage is repaired. We protect the room with masking. We set up ventilation equipment to capture the overspray and odors. The materials are mixed up. It’s a two-part process. You want to put a primer down. The primer gives you your adhesion as well as mechanical adhesion from the etching. So you get chemical and mechanical adhesion. Once the primer is set, we add the non-skid surface texture to it, and then the two coats of aliphatic acrylic polyurethane is added to the tub. The best material for coating tubs is aliphatic acrylic polyurethane.

TVW: There are kits for DIY, so why couldn’t I just do this myself?
PB: Well, the chemicals aren’t going to be available to you, the acids aren’t going to be available to you. The materials are, again, not going to be sold locally. You’re going to have to purchase it by the gallon. You’re only going to use approximately a little less than a quart on a job so you lose money on that. Plus the skill set of the spraying application are equal to a car painter, which takes several years to acquire the skill to apply the finish without any dirt, texture or runs. As well as all the safety equipment as well as respirators, heavy gloves and chemicals. So by the time you get all the gear, it’s not really a practical do-it-yourself job.

TVW: What is the difference between reglazing and lining?
PB: Refinishing is a coating applied to your fixtures, the best being aliphatic acrylic polyurethane. With the proper primers and preparation, the coating is mechanically attached to your original surface. You keep the look and feel of your tub and tile. Bathtub liners are made from sheets of plastic PVC or acrylic and a vacuum mold. The plastic sheet is heated to the correct temperature, placed over the mold and vacuum is applied drawing the sheet into and around the bathtub mold. Once cooled it is popped off. There are hundreds of bathtub shapes, so all tubs are not a candidate for liners. They build the molds to accommodate as many styles as they can, so they do not always fit the tub as well as they should. The liner should be professionally installed as they must be trimmed to fit the application.

TVW: What is your recommendation? And why?

PB: Bathtub refinishing gives you the best bang for your buck, but you must be careful in selecting a professional refinisher or you will be throwing away your money when the job fails and the company is no longer in business or changed its phone number and name or they simply refuse to honor their guarantee. Also the quality of the job depends on the skill level of the technician applying the coating. It is the same skills that a professional auto painter will have. Your coating should be smooth, free of texture, dirt, and runs. You’re saving a bundle with refinishing. It is not the time to pick the cheapest price. Those companies are not paying for professional sprayers or quality materials and will skimp on the preparations. For bathtub liners, I could easily be an installer for the many liner companies out there. My problem with them is I have seen so many liners fail from water getting underneath them and splitting on the bottom when you don’t get the surround with the liner. Also liners have a plastic feel to them and you lose a couple of inches of floor space. With the cost being two to five times as much as refinishing, I believe refinishing to be the best bet. Which ever you choose, just be sure to check out the companies well. There are shady folks doing both. Google any company and add complaint or scam to the name. Check their record with the BBB and, of course, Angie’s List. Another factor is do they have a home improvement license? It is not required for what we do, but it gives the homeowner recourse from a fund we pay into for protection of shoddy work.

TVW: What do you recommend to homeowners on the best way to care for a reglazed tub?
PB: First of all my suggestions are for all bathtubs reglazed or not. Clean weekly with a mild non abrasive cleaners, dish soap, scrubbing bubbles, even diluted vinegar, etc., works well and use a sponge or wash rag is all that is needed. Don’t do anything that you would not do to your car’s finish. Never use abrasive cleaners as they will scratch the surface causing dullness. If you use a bathmat remove it after each use and place it upside down over the rail so it may dry, the constant moisture along with the suction of the cups will slowly penetrate the coating and cause early failure. Repair leaking faucets as soon as possible, running water made the Grand Canyon, and a leaky faucet will drill a hole through your tub and your reglazing will not stop it. Drain clearing chemicals are misused all the time. They should not be added to a tub with water in them. Drain the water manually and add the chemicals into the drain without getting in on the surface. These chemicals have extreme pH levels and can literally eat the tub’s surface — reglazed or not. Better yet, use a drain snake or add baking soda down the drain and then vinegar. If you have hard water from a well causing staining, you can use automotive type rubbing compounds to polish out the discolorations as you would an old oxidized car. Don’t make it a habit to leave soap, shampoo bottles, etc., on the tubs rails. Use a hanging basket or corner shelf to keep these items in. The alkaline nature of soaps can mar the finish over time. Use your bathtub as a bathtub, not to store your beer keg or rebuild your carburetor in, also if you have a large dog it’s a good idea to put a mat or towel down so they do not dig in with their nails. If you are doing any other work in the bathroom cover your bathtub with some padding to protect it from something dropping.

TVW: Is there a limit to how many times you can reglaze or reline a tub? At one point do you tell a customer, “Dude, buy a new tub.”

PB: Actually you could reglaze or reline indefinitely. We have fixed holes the size of dinner plates, about the only time I turned down a job is when a customer has applied drain acid to a tub with water in it and the next morning it looks like the rocky mountains, we could repair it but the amount of rebuild work is just too much, that’s about the only time I refer them to check into liners or replacement.

TVW; Can you tell me what the price of a standard tub is if there was a need to replace it?
PB: The tubs themselves are not the costly factor — $200 to $800 for a quality standard tub. The real cost comes in when you start having to do the demolition — removing the tile, you have to dissect the plumbing, removal and disposal fees, reinstalling the tub. You have got concrete backer boards. You’ve got new plumbing, new tiling. So depending upon the tiling and the quality of the replacement it could cost $2,000 to $5,000 and take at least a week to do.

TVW: What’s the No. 1 most damaging thing people can do to their tub?
PB: No. 1 is misuse of abrasive cleaners, it’s a viscous circle once you scratch up the surface and it starts holding dirt and oils out comes the bleach and Comet and the problem is compounded. If bleach and comet are the only thing getting it clean, it’s time for a reglazing job or if you want to spend a bunch more, a liner.

TVW: AnythinTwinkle VanWinkle, online content producer
Interview with Andy Etzel, owner, Porcelite Bathtub Refinishing, Plymouth, Minn.
Jan. 5, 2010

Twinkle VanWinkle: Can you state your name, business and location for the record?
Andy Etzel: I’m Andy Etzel. I’m the owner-operator of Porcelite Bathtub and Refinishing Company. What we do is go in and take your old dingy tub and spray new glaze on it to make it smooth and bring the color back and it’s easier to keep clean. It gives it a fresh look, helps with resale purposes or if you’re just looking to spruce up the bathroom.

TVW: What are your specialties?
AE: [Our specialty is] reglazing. We also install acrylic liners. We also resurface countertops, tile floors, as well as resurfacing tile, too.

TVW: How did you get into the tub business?
AE: When I was done with school looking for something to do, we actually ended up buying this company from the original owner who started this company in 1976. We bought it 10 years ago. It was my father-in-law and myself. We’re in business together.

TVW: Have you seen resurgence in recycling older tubs? Or historic restoration?
AE: Business is really good. For the 10 years I have been doing it myself, business has been really busy. It’s been really steady. As far as this year’s concerned, there’s been a little bit of an increase because I think a lot of people are fixing versus replacing, where a lot of times people will tear out and put new stuff in. This year with economy the way it is a lot of people are just resurfacing. It’s much cheaper. It looks the same a brand new bathtub when it’s done and it lasts 15 to 20 years. It’s a lot more economical to do it that way.

TVW: What is an average charge for reglazing?
AE: I charge $425 to reglaze a standard-sized bathtub that has never been done before and doesn’t have too much damage as far as chips or deep scratches are concerned. A typical bathtub that needs reglazing is deglossed, it’s tough to clean, it may have little bit of a rough surface to it, might have stains in it. That is all done for $425. If there is multiple chips to fix or a real big damaged area either from erosion or [whatnot], I have to charge anywhere from about $10 to maybe $35 at the most to fill that will a special epoxy that I mix up and put in there and sand smooth.

TVW: You said you also do liners? What’s the difference?
AE: We’ve been installing liners for about five years now. We bought a franchise from a guy down in Atlanta. Liners do serve their purpose, they have a great durability as far as something dropping on them. They are acrylic so they give. The problem I have with liners is that they are terribly expensive for what they are. We charge $1,100 to reline a bathtub. For reglazing at that $425, you can get a reglazing two times for the price of that liner. I put a lot of liners in apartment buildings where they have no control of how the bathroom is cared for. As far as a residential customer goes, I usually try to steer them into reglazing. You keep your original looking tub. It will last a good 15 to 20 years. With a typical liner you should get all that, maybe a little more. But you’re not going to get a ton more life out of it, so it’s usually not cost effective that way.

TVW: Which one do you recommend more? Liners or reglazing.
AE: Again it depends on the situation or what the tub is going to be used for. Mostly I try to reglaze as much as I can only because it’s more cost effective to my customers. Like I said apartment buildings I usually put liners in because they have no control of how it’s going to be used or cared for. Tenants tend to not clean it very often and drop things in there quite a bit. So the owner doesn’t have to worry. I really only install liners mostly for apartments and reglaze mostly for residential use.

TVW: How would you recommend a customer clean their newly reglazed or lined tub?
AE: Basically I give them a list of cleaners when I’m done. On my sheet I recommend if it has been refinished, use household cleaners made for porcelain, but also you don’t want to use a cleaner you have to wear rubber gloves for. The reason is that it usually has chlorine or bleach or ammonia or vinegar or some other form of an acid that is caustic to porcelain, which is a glass and you can etch it over time. Most people don’t realize that kind of an acid will etch the porcelain that isn’t rinsed off well enough afterwards and that’s what causes it to dull out over time and get harder and harder to clean. You’re kind of opening the pores of the porcelain and you are deglossing the finish. It tends to trap dirt more. A lot of that stuff is OK to use on ceramic tile where porcelain is not because porcelain etches a lot easier than ceramic tile would. So anything labeled safe for porcelain. A general rule is as long as you don’t have to wear rubber gloves with it. I recommend Lysol tub and tile, Mr. Clean, Fantastic, Scrubbing Bubbles. Those are all good. I tend to stay away from Soft Scrub, Comet, Ajax, for obvious reasons. And that spray stuff that you spray on the bathtub walls and walk away from is terrible. It has usually a lot of chlorine in it and ends up putting streaks in the bathtub. I’ve had companies ask me to refinish those because they have ruined a brand new bathtub.

TVW: Is there a point when you just have to say, “Hey, it’s time to get a new tub?”
AE: I’ve actually never found a tub I can’t refinish or line. It can be done an infinite number of times. There is an additional fee to strip an old finish off a tub. I charge $150 to strip a tub to get down to the original finish. Although for some apartment buildings that want me to refinish instead of just lining the tub, I’ll actually just come in about every five or six years and redo them again. I don’t have to restrip them again. I can just sand them and go over the old finish. Yes, there is no limited amount of times.

TVW: What would you say is some of the most damaging things a homeowner can do to their tub to ruin the porcelain?
AE: Leaving shampoo bottles in the corners. That really tends to hold moisture in the corners and stain the corners over time. Really it’s the cleaners that are used on them. Most people don’t realize it’s the cleaner that has that caustic material in them. Ninety-nine percent of the time that’s why I am there redoing because the tub has lost it’s shine or it’s been ruined that way, or there is a stain in the corner they can’t get out. Those couple of things are probably the biggest culprits for the need to redo a tub.

TVW: What are some questions you would advise a homeowner to ask when hiring someone to reglaze or reline his or her tub?
AE: I hear these horror stories out there from these companies that don’t do it properly. I would ask how long they have been in business in their area, not just in general. There is just so many franchises out there that just start up and they come and go. Make sure they’ve been doing it for quite awhile. Ask what kind of materials they are using. Generally with this kind of process you get what you pay for. The cheaper companies tend to use the cheaper materials just because the cost to us has gone up significantly. We’ve been raising our costs as well to keep up with it. But there are companies that will come in there for almost half of what I charge and I would really tend to not use those kind of places only because you can almost expect it to not get nearly the life out of it as you would if it’s done properly with the proper material.

TVW: Have you seen a rise in historical restorations in bathtubs?
AE: Almost all of my work is in the downtown area where it’s older homes — homes that are at least 50 to 100 years old. That’s obviously the majority of my work, although I have done bathtubs that haven’t even been used yet. If you used the wrong chemical or drain cleaner that can ruin them right away. Definitely the majority is older tubs, people that want to keep that nice, deep tub where most of them that you buy nowadays are a lot shallower or they are fiberglass or acrylic versus cast iron or porcelain. So they want to keep that old look to the house or they don’t want to take a wall out or whatever to put a new bathtub in.

TVW: So can you tell me how much it costs to replace a bathtub?
AE: Obviously I am not in that line of work but I have been told from some people that the low is about $2,000. It really depends on the quality of materials you put in and who you hire to do the work. I actually did a bathroom for a couple in Minneapolis here that they put $100,000 into the bathroom and I actually ended up reglazing the claw-foot tub that was in there. That didn’t even include the bathtub. So it just really depends on the materials the people use and the workmanship.



Twinkle VanWinkle, online content producer
Interview with Paul Burns, President, Porcelain Tub Restorations, Bowie, Md.
Jan. 6, 2010

Twinkle VanWinkle: Can you state your name, company and location for the record?
Paul Burns: My name is Paul Burns. We are in Bowie Md. We service the Washington, D.C., Baltimore, and northern Virginia metro area.
The company is Porcelain Tub Restorations and we do bathtub and surround refinishing. I am the president.




TVW: What is your specialty?

PB: Budget bathroom renovations done in a day.



TVW: How did you get into the business of restoring older bathrooms, refitting or reglazing?
PB: I always knew I wanted to be in business, but lacked the capital as a younger man. My background has been mechanics, auto painting and a sideline doing home improvement. During a management change at my day job in 1988 as head painter at a local auto dealership, the entire crew was let go as they brought in their own people. I took what I thought to be a temporary job at refinishing bathtubs for a local company. With my skill set I was immediately put in the residential department. After a short bit I realized that I could afford the capital and equipment to start my own refinishing company and I did just that. Within a few years my company grew so much I started hiring and training techs to my standards. Twenty years later we now have a dozen trucks on the road serving most of Maryland, D.C., and northern Virginia.

TVW: Have you seen a decrease or increase in retrofitting or remodeling with older bathtubs?
PB: Definitely an increase, we have grown 10 percent every year since we started. It’s a great way to recycle your bathroom fixtures, making them look new again at a fraction of the cost of replacement or tub liners and also can be done in one day. Also the older bathtubs are often of better quality. There is one problem with new tubs. In 1990 the Americans with Disabilities Act forced many changes — one being all new bathtubs must have a non-slip surface. When you buy a new tub today, it already has a bottom that can stain due to the manufacturers non-slip surface that is an open, porous area on the bottom. Within a week of using it, the tub’s bottom will be soiled from the oils in your feet and soap residue and it will be difficult to keep clean. Refinishing avoids this by adding a texture to our coating during the process.

TVW: What is an average cost for replacement?
PB: The real costs are tearing out the walls and floor tile due to the new tub being a different shape. There is also the disconnecting the plumbing, removal and disposal of the existing tub, re-installing the tub, new vapor barrier, concrete backer board, new plumbing and control valves and retiling. So depending on quality of materials used and bathroom size, an average bathtub replacement will run two to five thousand and take at least a week to do.

TVW: 
For reglazing?
PB:
For a standard size tub that has normal wear and tear or color change and depending on what part of the country you are in, also the quality of the refinisher, pricing will range from $300 to $500. In the lower price range, you should realize that the company is using low cost materials, skimping on the preparation and cheap labor to offer the lower price. Also they will not cover their warranty by sighting the problem on the customers care as a way to avoid any cost to them. Our charges are very competitive for bathtub reglazing. At $425, we include re-caulking and we add a texture to the bottom to aid in slip prevention at no extra charge. We also stand behind our warranty 100 percent. Tile or surrounds are priced at $9 per square foot and would be approximately $450 for your standard 50 square foot surround. Both can be done in one day.

If the tub or surround has been previously reglazed before it is always recommended to remove the failed finish before applying a new one so stripping charges may apply and would add an addition hundred to a bathtub reglazing job or about $250 to a tub and surround job. There is one additional item I highly recommend and that none of my competitors will mention: the drain and overflow removal. It’s the perfect time to replace your bathtub drain at the time of refinishing. It simply makes for the best job. I can assure you that when I did my own bathtub the drain was pulled and then a new one was re-installed once the job had cured. Why? Two reasons: No. 1, aesthetics and No. 2, the mechanics of coatings. Aesthetically, an old, faded drain will really look out of place against a newly refinished bathtub. It’s the perfect time to replace it. Should your old drain overflow be in great shape it can be re-installed saving you replacement cost.

When a coating is applied, its weakest point is its edges. An edge is a point that can be pushed against. In this case when you refinish your bathtub and you do not pull the drain, there will be a coating edge around the drain versus having the material under your drain with no edge. The force of water flowing over that edge, plus the contraction and expansion of the drain itself, going through hot and cold cycles, are two forces pushing against the edge and can cause premature failure of the coating. Once a coating starts to lift from these forces it can continue to lift and we call this peeling. A coating that could have gone 15 years can fail way short of this life span. When there is rust, soap, bathing oils or moisture trapped under the drain, no amount of preparations is going to remove it unless the drain is pulled. This can prevent any coating from sealing properly around the drain. I have seen coatings go a long time without removing the drains, but it’s a gamble. If rust is under the drain, it will eventually come back if not completely removed and treated before reglazing, causing the material around the drain to blister and peel. We offer removal and re-installation of the drain overflow for $150 and it requires a return trip. The customers may be able to do this themselves if they are handy, but a plumber will be twice that. With the drain removed, we offer a five-year “No Quibble” guarantee, meaning if you have a problem we will simply take care of it. A typical standard tub and surround reglazing with the drain removed can be completed for right around $1,000. Additional services are rust hole repair, failed liner removal, soggy wall repair, re-grouting, cracked fiberglass tub repair, chip repair and erosion damage.

TVW: What about liners?
PB: Bathtub liners come in several grades of material and thickness. One material is PVC. It is softer and scratches more readily, and it tends to yellow over time. The other is acrylic — much tougher but costly. The cheaper liners will also be thinner. The other factor with liners is the tendency to flex and pull away from the wall breaking the seal, allowing water to get underneath, which is why I see most liner companies insisting on adding a surround as well, driving the price sky high. A PVC bathtub liner installed will run about $1,000. With a wall surround liner and depending on the options ordered, add another $1,500 minimum. Should you decided on acrylic tub and surround liner you can expect to double that price to $4,000 or $5,000.

TVW: What do you do when you are reglazing?
PB: Well, the process is, generally, when we get to the tub it has an erosion layer, the shine is gone. It usually has some scratch and chips form just wear and tear, or they have some 1960s colors they are trying to get rid of. So basically, when we go into a job, we’ll take the caulk out. We also like to remove the drain and overflow. You get a much better job when the drain has been pulled. The tub is etched with a mild acid that we dilute on the job. It’s a glass etch. What it does is remove any foreign material and it gets the tub etched for adhesion. Then the chips or scratches are worked out with diamond abrasives or fillers, depending on the damage. Once the tub has been etched, all the damage is repaired. We protect the room with masking. We set up ventilation equipment to capture the overspray and odors. The materials are mixed up. It’s a two-part process. You want to put a primer down. The primer gives you your adhesion as well as mechanical adhesion from the etching. So you get chemical and mechanical adhesion. Once the primer is set, we add the non-skid surface texture to it, and then the two coats of aliphatic acrylic polyurethane is added to the tub. The best material for coating tubs is aliphatic acrylic polyurethane.

TVW: There are kits for DIY, so why couldn’t I just do this myself?
PB: Well, the chemicals aren’t going to be available to you, the acids aren’t going to be available to you. The materials are, again, not going to be sold locally. You’re going to have to purchase it by the gallon. You’re only going to use approximately a little less than a quart on a job so you lose money on that. Plus the skill set of the spraying application are equal to a car painter, which takes several years to acquire the skill to apply the finish without any dirt, texture or runs. As well as all the safety equipment as well as respirators, heavy gloves and chemicals. So by the time you get all the gear, it’s not really a practical do-it-yourself job.

TVW: What is the difference between reglazing and lining?
PB: Refinishing is a coating applied to your fixtures, the best being aliphatic acrylic polyurethane. With the proper primers and preparation, the coating is mechanically attached to your original surface. You keep the look and feel of your tub and tile. Bathtub liners are made from sheets of plastic PVC or acrylic and a vacuum mold. The plastic sheet is heated to the correct temperature, placed over the mold and vacuum is applied drawing the sheet into and around the bathtub mold. Once cooled it is popped off. There are hundreds of bathtub shapes, so all tubs are not a candidate for liners. They build the molds to accommodate as many styles as they can, so they do not always fit the tub as well as they should. The liner should be professionally installed as they must be trimmed to fit the application.

TVW: What is your recommendation? And why?

PB: Bathtub refinishing gives you the best bang for your buck, but you must be careful in selecting a professional refinisher or you will be throwing away your money when the job fails and the company is no longer in business or changed its phone number and name or they simply refuse to honor their guarantee. Also the quality of the job depends on the skill level of the technician applying the coating. It is the same skills that a professional auto painter will have. Your coating should be smooth, free of texture, dirt, and runs. You’re saving a bundle with refinishing. It is not the time to pick the cheapest price. Those companies are not paying for professional sprayers or quality materials and will skimp on the preparations. For bathtub liners, I could easily be an installer for the many liner companies out there. My problem with them is I have seen so many liners fail from water getting underneath them and splitting on the bottom when you don’t get the surround with the liner. Also liners have a plastic feel to them and you lose a couple of inches of floor space. With the cost being two to five times as much as refinishing, I believe refinishing to be the best bet. Which ever you choose, just be sure to check out the companies well. There are shady folks doing both. Google any company and add complaint or scam to the name. Check their record with the BBB and, of course, Angie’s List. Another factor is do they have a home improvement license? It is not required for what we do, but it gives the homeowner recourse from a fund we pay into for protection of shoddy work.

TVW: What do you recommend to homeowners on the best way to care for a reglazed tub?
PB: First of all my suggestions are for all bathtubs reglazed or not. Clean weekly with a mild non abrasive cleaners, dish soap, scrubbing bubbles, even diluted vinegar, etc., works well and use a sponge or wash rag is all that is needed. Don’t do anything that you would not do to your car’s finish. Never use abrasive cleaners as they will scratch the surface causing dullness. If you use a bathmat remove it after each use and place it upside down over the rail so it may dry, the constant moisture along with the suction of the cups will slowly penetrate the coating and cause early failure. Repair leaking faucets as soon as possible, running water made the Grand Canyon, and a leaky faucet will drill a hole through your tub and your reglazing will not stop it. Drain clearing chemicals are misused all the time. They should not be added to a tub with water in them. Drain the water manually and add the chemicals into the drain without getting in on the surface. These chemicals have extreme pH levels and can literally eat the tub’s surface — reglazed or not. Better yet, use a drain snake or add baking soda down the drain and then vinegar. If you have hard water from a well causing staining, you can use automotive type rubbing compounds to polish out the discolorations as you would an old oxidized car. Don’t make it a habit to leave soap, shampoo bottles, etc., on the tubs rails. Use a hanging basket or corner shelf to keep these items in. The alkaline nature of soaps can mar the finish over time. Use your bathtub as a bathtub, not to store your beer keg or rebuild your carburetor in, also if you have a large dog it’s a good idea to put a mat or towel down so they do not dig in with their nails. If you are doing any other work in the bathroom cover your bathtub with some padding to protect it from something dropping.

TVW: Is there a limit to how many times you can reglaze or reline a tub? At one point do you tell a customer, “Dude, buy a new tub.”

PB: Actually you could reglaze or reline indefinitely. We have fixed holes the size of dinner plates, about the only time I turned down a job is when a customer has applied drain acid to a tub with water in it and the next morning it looks like the rocky mountains, we could repair it but the amount of rebuild work is just too much, that’s about the only time I refer them to check into liners or replacement.

TVW; Can you tell me what the price of a standard tub is if there was a need to replace it?
PB: The tubs themselves are not the costly factor — $200 to $800 for a quality standard tub. The real cost comes in when you start having to do the demolition — removing the tile, you have to dissect the plumbing, removal and disposal fees, reinstalling the tub. You have got concrete backer boards. You’ve got new plumbing, new tiling. So depending upon the tiling and the quality of the replacement it could cost $2,000 to $5,000 and take at least a week to do.

TVW: What’s the No. 1 most damaging thing people can do to their tub?
PB: No. 1 is misuse of abrasive cleaners, it’s a viscous circle once you scratch up the surface and it starts holding dirt and oils out comes the bleach and Comet and the problem is compounded. If bleach and comet are the only thing getting it clean, it’s time for a reglazing job or if you want to spend a bunch more, a liner.

TVW: Anything else you might want to add?
PB: I would like to mention some advancements in coating technologies that are on the horizon. We are developing a UV cured coating, once it is applied we cure it with a special UV light that instantly cures the material, it is absolutely green containing no solvents, low odor, completely resistance to chemical attack and can be put back online the same day. We are really excited about the future of refinishing with this advancement.

g else you might want to add?
PB: I would like to mention some advancements in coating technologies that are on the horizon. We are developing a UV cured coating, once it is applied we cure it with a special UV light that instantly cures the material, it is absolutely green containing no solvents, low odor, completely resistance to chemical attack and can be put back online the same day. We are really excited about the future of refinishing with this advancement.

Posted: 10/6/2009 7:05:51 AM By Listen! | 0 comments | Transcript
Paul F.P. Pogue, associate editor
Interview with Buck Sheppard, president of National Air Duct Cleaners Association (NADCA) and John Schulte, executive director of NADCA
March 19, 2009

What are some misconceptions people have of your business?

Sheppard: For years and years, when duct cleaning first got started, there were a lot of people not going about it the correct way. There weren’t people taking things out of ducts, they were trying to put some things in the duct systems. When a very forward-looking group of men got together in the 1980s and decided to focus on NADCA and start the organization. We came to the realization that the only proper way to clean ducts was to remove the debris and dirt from a system that carries all the air in your house.

For a long time, duct cleaners had less than stellar reputations. But I think we’ve gone a long way towards changing that.

Schulte: I think the biggest misconception in our business is that it’s referred to as the air duct cleaning industry, but we’re actually talking about cleaning the entire HVAC system. Just the name of our industry in general is misleading.

What goes into cleaning the HVAC system?

Sheppard: We clean everything that air passes over from the point where return air goes into the return air ducting, through the furnace, over the heat exchanger, blower motors, air conditioning coils if they are in the system all the way out through all the supply ductwork – through the registers and grills and any outside air that might be introduced. Anything that touches the air, or any component that air passes over is cleaned. That’s what a cleaning is. You’re not just cleaning the ductwork. There’s so much more involved.

With the high-efficiency furnaces you have not just one heat exchanger, but an ancillary heat exchanger. And that’s just residentially.

How has air duct cleaning changed since NADCA started?

Sheppard: Things are very, very different. The equipment is much more high tech. Back when duct cleaning first started, the only way to clean it was contact vacuuming and that didn’t do as complete of a job as it should have because in a lot of places you couldn’t access the ductwork.

But with the advent of modern technology and the advent of our portable gas fired or electric fired collection devices and negative pressure machines and air compressors where you can drive 150-200 psi of air through a system, or use that same air to drive different tools – brushes that rotate, robots, or what we in the industry call “whips,” which are special heads with tentacles that agitate the inside of the duct work – all the way up to our large trucks. A truck can create a lot of high negative pressure. When you’re creating that system, there’s only one path for anything broken loose – and that’s out of the duct system and back to the truck. It used to be a science, but now it’s more of an art.

Schulte: We get a lot of calls from residential consumers who are trying to get their minds around cleaning the system, and what happens is that call different people in the industry and they get different stories about it.

A lot of guys sell the cleaning based on their equipment. And your average consumer is going to have a hard time making a determination as to which equipment is better than the other. So what I do is explain our process of cleaning HVAC systems.

If you step back from duct cleaning for a minute, it’s a similar process to what you see with a vacuum cleaner in your house. Let’s say you’ve got some carpet in your house. You turn on your vacuum cleaner, and you hear that noise that it makes. It’s sucking up the dust and dirt. That’s one part of the process – sucking up and removing the dust and dirt. But beyond that, in most vacuum cleaners there’s some kind of a little wheel or brush under there, designed to loosen up the dirt. Think of that in terms of air duct cleaning.

Obviously, that vacuum cleaner is cleaning a space of maybe 12 inches at a time. But when you’re cleaning a HVAC system, you’re cleaning the ductwork all throughout your house. You’re talking 20 to 30 feet, maybe hundreds of feet of ductwork and HVAC system [at a time]. In order for that to work, our guys use some pretty heavy-duty equipment, either portable or truck mounted.

But they put [the HVAC system] under a vacuum to get everything sucked out. As Buck said, that’s one of the main principles of what we do. We call it source removal – removing the source of contamination.

You put the system under a vacuum, and then the next part of the process is they use some kind of agitation tool, like a brush or whips or compressed air, to make sure the dust and dirt within the system gets loosened up so it can get sucked out.

One of the other main components is to make sure that during the cleaning the dust and dirt doesn’t migrate into the occupied space.

What are questions you commonly get from homeowners?

Sheppard: I get two prevalent questions. Why and how often? Why should you clean it? We can approach that from several different levels.

We clean HVAC systems for three reasons: to increase comfort, to increase energy efficiency, and it’s also an emotional issue for a lot of people.

They say, spring cleaning’s here, we just turned on our AC for the first time, my allergies are acting up. I shy away from health claims about duct cleaning. Duct cleaning will do a lot of things for you. It will clean your duct system. It will help increase your efficiency and make your system last longer. It’ll help it provide the comfort it was designed to provide. But, I don’t make any health claims because none of those have ever been quantified or verified in any medical or scientific study.

Duct cleaning for most people is an emotional issue up until the last couple of years when energy efficiency became top of mind for everybody.

We wash our cars, we wash our clothes, we wash the plates we eat off of, but because it’s out of sight, people don’t think about cleaning the air conveyance system for what they’re breathing.

Every bit of air we breath in our homes … is passing through a duct system.

Duct systems are just like anything else. Over time, they collect dust, hair, dander. It makes good emotional sense to some people … to be on a schedule of some sort, have that stuff cleaned out, have it removed so that it is not being imparted into the air stream that you’re breathing.

Cleaning the HVAC system – the furnaces, the coils really drive the energy efficiency. These coils are designed to deliver a certain efficiency out of the factory. When you install them in a house and start running them, all that dirt and dust that gets by filters – and it will, mainly because people don’t maintain their filters – that accumulates.

As these things get plugged, you’re not getting the heat transfer as efficiently as you used to. So keeping those things clean keeps your energy costs down. And you’re working those things less hard. The harder it has to work, everything starts to wear faster.

How does it affect comfort specifically?

Sheppard: An AC coil is designed to take heat off air, transfer it to Freon, then pump it outside. A typical direct expansion AC coil looks like a radiator in a car. As [the parts of the AC coil] plug with microbial growth or dirt, dust and pet dander, you don’t blow as much air through that coil, therefore you’re not transferring as much heat. You start plugging coils up and drop the delta-t transfer, it goes from 15-18 to 9-12. You’ve just dropped your comfort level by a third and increased your energy cost by a third. Is duct cleaning a panacea? No, but along with a good routine maintenance program, you can drive down those costs.

The EPA says they’ve done studies that don’t conclusively demonstrate whether dirty air ducts contribute to dust levels in homes, and don’t take a stance on whether air ducts should be cleaned.

Have you been in talks with the EPA about this? What’s the current status of things?

Sheppard: That’s their latest publication on air duct cleaning. NADCA helped them with it. I’ve read the study over and over again. The EPA says, and we stand behind this, there’s been no definitive studies as to whether there are health issues. But JADCA, Japanese, have done some studies counting particles before and after a duct cleaning, and they find a significant reduction of particles in the air. Mostly, when I have to deal with the people and this EPA document, it’s on the emotional level. If they read the entire study, they’ll see that the EPA does say that duct cleaning does have some benefits. Where they differ is how often it should be. For some people, it might have to be part of a yearly maintenance program. For others, maybe not.

Part of any good duct cleaner, and especially the NADCA members, is what we do before we ever start cleaning and that’s inspect it. A lot of times I’ll send guys out to inspect systems and they don’t need to be cleaned. I have no problem telling them that they’re not in a position to be cleaned. There’s no need for it.

The EPA document isn’t the best I’ve ever seen, but it’s what we’ve got. We’re not high on their priority list right now. We stay in constant contact with them and we’re trying to help them along to see the wisdom of – I have to use the word routine because that implies almost yearly — but a routine cleaning regiment. That could be every three years, that could be every five years. I have customers in Portland, Ore. with pulmonary disease and oxygen in their house. They’re more than willing to have it done every year because they feel like it helps them.

The EPA never says duct cleaning is bad. They do recommend against applying certain biocides. We agree with that. We feel that until EPA publishes a definitive paper on what you can apply in terms of a biocide or fungicide inside duct work, we recommend our members don’t use them. We go back to source removal – if you take all the source out of contamination, I really don’t see why you would have to put something back into that duct system in order to sterilize it.

Schulte: A lot of our members think of the duct system as another surface in the house. You get people who are emotional about it – “Why should I have to clean my duct work? Why do I care? I don’t have to look at it.”

My response is, do you vacuum your house, do you sweep your floors? Of course, people get indignant at the insinuation that they might not have a clean house and they say, “Of course I do.” So my next question is, “When you do that, do you clean half the living room? Would you vacuum half the floor? When you’re sweeping, do you sweep a lot of dust and dirt under the carpet?” Well, of course not. Nobody would do that. Well, if you want a clean house, duct work is another surface in your house. Except with this surface, you’ve got a fan blowing through there every time the system cycles on.

Is there any research like the one JADCA did going on in the United States right now?

Schulte: We’re not doing any research like JADCA. That study, they presented it last year, they gave us a translated copy. What they showed is, they put up a particle counter in a commercial building, but the same concept applies to residential home. They’d attach this equipment to a vent outside the duct work. Every time the system cycled on, they saw a big spike in the number of particles airborne blown out of the HVAC system. Then they cleaned the HVAC system and measured it again. And once the system was clean, there wasn’t that big spike.

It doesn’t prove a health claim, but within a dirty system, there’s going to be a big spike in particles coming out. Now, what’s the impact of these airborne particles on human health? There’s no studies on that. In my mind, the reason for that is, it’s hard to get someone to sign up to be a guinea pig to be bombarded with bad air quality until I feel a physical effect. It’s also human health, and what’s perfectly acceptable for one person could be problematic for another. People with allergies or asthma are more sensitive to these particles in the environment.

My wife has allergies. Once we got our ducts cleaned, she said, “My allergies aren’t bothering me as much.” Can that be quantified? No, it’s different from person to person. It’s hard to prove a conclusive link between bad indoor air quality and impact on health.

Did you bring JADCA’s research to the EPA’s attention?

Schulte: NADCA has approached the EPA at least twice since that document came out. My predecessor in 2003 or 2004 sent EPA a letter asking them to re-evaluate their article. Bottom line is, it wasn’t changed. I wrote the EPA myself in 2005, 2006 and didn’t get any response. I heard that their IAQ division had been scaled back a bit.

I did hear secondhand, and I don’t know if this is accurate, but what I heard was until NADCA can demonstrate that cleaning your air ducts improves health, they’re not going to change their document.

But if you really look at what the document says, they wrote it to address companies that don’t do a good job. It says, don’t clean your air ducts unless they’re really dirty, have mold or infestation from vermin. Which is consistent with our stance.

Beyond that, the rest of the paper gets into potential problems if you don’t do it correctly and claims that are made by unscrupulous companies. And then it says, if you are going to get your system cleaned, make sure you use someone who has the NADCA standards. Guys in our industry don’t like the tone of the document, but the EPA feels the need to warn the public about unscrupulous companies in the industry.

What are some signs of a bad or crooked duct cleaner?

Sheppard: We make that pretty easy for consumers on our website. We give them a checklist of things to ask your air duct cleaner and things to look at when they’re finished. It follows sort of closely to the checklist in the EPA article.

Watch your duct cleaners and once they’re through, inspect it. Look inside your furnace. Look at the blower section. Look at the fan motor.

One of the big telling signs that I find with most duct cleaners is are they willing to stand there and show you what they did? Let’s face it, when you put one of these systems under that high vacuum and you start agitating dust, there’s really no way to tell exactly what came out.

Is the duct cleaner doing exactly what he told you he’d do? Will he lay out for you a checklist of everything he’s going to do, and when he’s through, will he help you verify it? He needs to explain the different methods and systems he’s using. Sometimes the direct expansion coils require a wet cleaning. You need to know exactly what they’re doing and the methods that they use. The EPA has a checklist and so do we.

Schulte: One thing I do to make it as easy as possible for consumers, there’s a limit to how much your average consumer is willing to learn. You know that when you buy a house you’ve taken on a huge maintenance issue. You’ve got roof issues, a host of things you have to learn about. What I find is that most people, the customers we appreciate, are the ones who are willing to take a little bit of time to get the basics of what they need to do. I ask them how much time they have. Some say, just give me the main points, other say, give me what I need. It’s usually a 15-30 minute phone call. I encourage them, to write on the bill of sale, and while they’re getting proposals and bids, I tell them to make sure they want them to clean the system in accordance with NADCA standards. We have an industry standard. It’s available for free download off of our website. The title is ACR-2006. We’ve been publishing standards since 1992, and we’ve changed them quite a bit, including when we did that research project with EPA.

We tell consumers to write that on their bill of sale, because that’s their contract. From a consumer standpoint, it covers the three main things: do the whole system, use continuous negative pressure, and use some type of agitation tool. For your average residential HVAC cleaning, those are the main things that differentiate a company that’s going to do a good job from one that’s out to make a quick buck. And if that’s on their bill of sale, they have some legal recourse to go back and be protected. They have some basis for expecting something else.

What are some common signs that you might need to get your ducts cleaned?

Sheppard: There’s a lot of things you might notice. Just because a grill’s dirty doesn’t mean your air duct system is dirty. Air blowing over a metal creates a static charge and it attracts dust that’s in the air. If it’s really bad, you might want to have someone come out and take a look at it for you.

We have, the HVAC professionals, in our organization, that go out and service – do actual maintenance on HVAC systems every year. We’ve trained all of our guys to look in the duct system. The easiest way to know if your duct system should be cleaned is to look inside the return. Where I’m at here in Portland, Ore., most of our returns are in the floor, you lift the grill up and stick your head in and look.

If it’s accumulated a half an inch three-quarters of an inch or more, that’s one of the best ways I know how to tell. If it’s summer and your air conditioner is running and your coils freeze or your system is acting up, check the filter. See what it looks like. Is the filter in good shape? Is it caved in? Does it fit properly? If it doesn’t fit properly or it’s plugged, you’ll want to look a little farther. Look inside the furnace. There’s a lot of things you can see visually as John and Jane homeowner that can tell you whether you need to ask a professional if it needs cleaned.

Schulte: Another thing consumers can do, sometimes these ducts, sticking your head in might be difficult, usually there’s some area, maybe near the return, you can take the grill off and stick a small digital camera, shine it in and take a picture. Even if they can’t reach too far in there, I think it’s usually pretty obvious. A light amount of dust is normal, but when you get a thick layer of dust, that’s a pretty big indication it needs to be cleaned.

A lot of people have their AC units serviced once or twice a year. When your contract is looking at the system, it’s a good idea for you to look at it yourself, but you can ask that technician, hey, how’s it look, does it look like something I need to get cleaned. They may not be experts on it, but it’s worth a shot.

You can always call [a NADCA member] and ask them to come out and do an inspection. Some do, some don’t. It’s hard for some of these companies to justify sending out a technician, at least at no charge, to do an inspection. They have to pay for the guy to get over there, he’s got to do the inspection, then he’s got to drive wherever he’s going and that adds up quite a bit. Some may charge for it, some may do it for free. It varies from one company to the next.

Sheppard: The EPA document, if you really read the entire document, speaks pretty highly of NADCA, duct cleaning as a whole, emotional [concerns], energy usage and comfort. And more and more, it’s moving into the energy efficiency and comfort realm. There are some studies going on to prove the energy savings from a clean HVAC system and those should be published within the next year, 18 months.

The important thing to remember about duct cleaning is, if your consumer thinks he needs it done, have the inspection done and then if it needs to be cleaned, clean it. Guys who tell you they need it every year – I do very few [of the same] residential homes every year. I do have a couple, but they have some real health issues in the house that have nothing to do with their duct work. They’re trying to maintain as pristine an environment as they can. Always go to the professionals. To be quite honest with you, there’s no better professionals in the United States than a NADCA professional. They’ll tell you the truth, good bad or indifferent. The emotional deal changes from person to person. But when you look at comfort and energy efficiency, you’ll see that duct cleaning and HVAC system cleaning, and maintenance restoration are where this entire HVAC industry is going and your NADCA guys are the guys leading the charge.

What’s the average cost of a duct cleaning?

Schulte: It does vary quite a bit, especially with the economy. It’s a seasonal business as well.

We have a brochure on our website geared toward residential consumers. What we tell them is that for an average sized house, 2,000 square foot, you’ll spend anywhere around 1,000 to have your system cleaned. That’s for one HVAC. And believe it or not, some people have more than one system in their house, in a larger house they may have many systems.

Some of the key factors in terms of figuring out the price depends on where you live. High cost of living means you’ll be closer to that $1,000. If you’re in the Midwest, you might expect to pay somewhere closer to $500. I’ve heard of guys discounting below that, but usually not much below that and on a short-term basis.

Some companies will clean the whole system, some companies will clean half the system. It’s not just price, it’s for that price what is they’re going to do?

A lot of companies will clean the whole system, some of them will clean just the ductwork. We recommend cleaning the whole system. If you’re going to get the energy savings benefit, you need to get the coils cleaned, the blower and the actual unit. That’s a big differentiation between one company and the next.

You can see advertisements out there that claim that the contractor will clean your whole HVAC system for $49.95.

If you do nothing else but to warn people about that, I feel confident in saying that there’s no way a customer is going to get their system clean for that kind of money. If you want to pay a guy that much money, you’re going to get that much worth of work. And quite frankly, the work that they are going to do, that’s exactly the kind of work the EPA article was focusing on.

After they’re finished, they’re probably going to have made the problem worse than if you hadn’t done anything at all.

Guys will go in there, they don’t want to use agitation or they don’t have good equipment so they’ll bang around in your system for 60-90 minutes and they’ll be doing some cleaning work, but when they’re finished, that system is not going to be clean.

While they’re in there banging around loosening up a lot of fine particles — you’re talking about very, very fine dust particles. When you bang on sheet metal, you can imagine that these dust particles are going to become airborne. Well, they’re so fine that they’re going to stay airborne for a long time. As soon as you turn on your system, those particles will get blown right into your house.

When we say worse than if you hadn’t done anything, that’s what we’re talking about.

Usually what happens is if a guy says he’s going to charge you $49.95, when he gets there, he’s going to find some reason why it’s more expensive. “Oh, you’ve got mold. You need to do this, this and this and it’s going to cost you a couple thousand dollars.”

And if you balk at that, he’ll say “Well, you seem like a nice person. I’ll give you my military discount or my senior citizen discount.”

These guys use some scare tactics, “Hey, it’s your family’s health, if you don’t mind your kids being exposed to this toxic mold, you go right on ahead.”

But again, we recommend cleaning the whole system, following the NADCA standard and pay a fair price. Or don’t do it. If you can’t afford to do it right, don’t do it at all.

What are the primary causes of dirty air ducts?

Schulte: Dust mites. Basically anything that gets past the filter. You’ll be at the hardware store and you’ll see some $20 filters and another filter for 69 cents. And usually the 69-cent filters are made of blue stringy material, and you can pretty much look through it.

And those filters … our guys call them bowling-ball catchers. It catches big balls of fuzz the size of a bowling ball, but when it comes to smaller particles, they’re just going to blow right through the filter and they’re going to go right into the air conditioning system. But so much dust gets through your system you can’t even imagine.

So it’s dust, dust mites, insect parts. You get insects that die within your duct work, cockroaches for example. They start to decompose within your HVAC system, and apparently those cell fragments are a big source of allergens, a lot of people are allergic to those types of things.

At some point, we all have limits. Some people have higher limits than other. Mold spores are very, very fine particles, a lot of that will get through a filter. Usually it’s not a problem. Mold spores are everywhere. They’re in your HVAC system. When it becomes a problem is when they settle over time, get trapped in dust and just sit there. But, if the moisture content within the air, or there’s high humidity or the system malfunctions and you get water in your system … mold will start to grow. That’s all it takes. And what does the mold eat? Mold eats dust. It eats almost anything. Over time, until you become aware of it, this mold in there, low levels aren’t a problem, but intense amounts of mold, active colonies in your system, then even for people who aren’t ordinarily susceptible to mold problems will see an effect.

Is this a seasonal job?

Schulte: People have them cleaned primarily in the spring and fall as they transition from heating to cooling and then from cooling to heating.

What are some ways to determine how often you should have your air ducts cleaned?

Schulte: In terms of how to tell, have it inspected. Consumers who just want to look at it themselves, it is pretty easy to do. You get a screwdriver, you open up your return vent and look in there.

Most homeowners can make up their own mind at that point. Yeah, it’s going to be dirty, but the best answer I heard from one of our members, he did a focus group and asked, why did you hire us? This is somebody’s who’s paying close to $1,000. The No. 1 answer he got back was with an indignant look from a housewife – “Because it’s dirty!”

Our guys do this every day and they talk to people who haven’t had their systems cleaned in 30 years. Usually, when you get a house like that, it’s pretty nasty. You could easily have an inch or 2 inches of dust built up and the system is basically getting clogged at that point. Sometime guys come across systems that are totally clogged.

When we talk about dust and dirt, we’re talking about something similar to what you would find in a lint filter. If you [neglect it] over time, you could literally get enough dust and dirt in there to totally seal off the duct work. Sometimes these big chunks of that stuff will break off and just clog.

Where can we get some good information on energy efficiency?

Schulte: The best document I’ve found comes from the US DOE [Department of Energy], it dates back quite a few years. The best study, and we’re doing our own $250,000 study right now to quantify the energy savings. There’s nothing right now out there on cleaning the whole system. The best information we have is a study by Pacific Gas and Electric – a public utility out in California. They did a study just to look at the coils, and this document from DOE based on that PGE study, basically said, look, here’s your best opportunities for energy savings, and the third opportunity they list is coil cleaning.

You can reduce the energy consumption for just the compressor by up to 30 percent from cleaning the coils. One of the things I like about this document is a picture of a dirty coil. When you see that picture, you’re going to see what looks like a lint filter that hasn’t been cleaned for a while. The coil is so heavily contaminated with dust and whatever that it’s pretty easy to see the air can’t blow across that coil anymore.

Paul F.P. Pogue, Angie’s List associate editor
Interview with Glenn Fellman, executive director, Indoor Air Quality Association (formerly the executive director of National Air Duct Cleaners Association)
March 23, 2009

What kind of research is there about duct cleaning and indoor air quality?

When it comes to indoor air quality and duct cleaning, there isn’t any definitive study that says, if you have your air duct cleaned, the amount of fine dust in your home will be reduced by “x” percentage. There is no scientific data along those lines. There is, however, tons and tons of anecdotal evidence and common sense evidence that this is a smart thing to do.

I tell people this is the heart and circulatory system of your house. The heat pump is your heart, the ducts are your veins. If your HVAC or duct is gunked up with dust or mold, the core mechanical system of your house that delivers the air you breathe, isn’t going to be functioning effectively.

There’s a lot of misconceptions about duct cleaning. The first point is the name. If people say, I’m just having my ducts cleaned, I tell them to save the money. It’s the mechanical equipment, all the stuff in the big metal box, that’s the thing that really needs to be cleaned. That’s where you’re going to see the biggest energy savings, that’s where you’re going to be seeing lots of mold, and that should be cleaned once a year. That can be cleaned by your heating and cooling contractor.

Your duct work could go a good five years between cleanings, assuming you’re using a good filter. If you’re using cheap throwaway filters form the supermarket, you’ll probably be needing to clean them more often.

What are your thoughts on the EPA’s brochure about duct cleaning?

There’s text in that brochure that came right out of NADCA. It’s out of date, it needs to be updated, consumers need to keep that in mind. That document reflects the state of the industry at the time, and it’s still true today. There’s no scientifically based conclusion you can draw that says, if you have your ducts cleaned, it’s a positive thing because it’ll improve your health. Now you will find studies that say, if you have your coils cleaned you’ll be more energy-efficient, and that’s true. I think the EPA document is a little more conservative than I would be, but overall, it’s not a bad document.

The most notable studies have come out of American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE), and they did work with some labs where they tested the efficiency of dirty coils and compared it to the efficiency of cleaner coils. They learned it takes a lot less energy to run a system and keep a dwelling at a certain temperature when a system was clean rather than when it was dirty. That’s been well documented.

If your system is dirty, especially the coils, if you clean them it will run more efficiently, and more importantly, it will last longer. It’s like keeping a car well-oiled and well maintained. You could extend the life of your unit considerably by having it serviced once a year. If you can get an extra three or four life years out of your system, you should do it. That’s a $15,000 replacement right there.

Part of the new stimulus package gives homeowners a $1,500 rebate if they install high-efficiency furnaces and heating/cooling systems in their home. I know there’s a lot of contractors telling people with older systems, instead of having a repair, why not get a new high efficiency unit, you’ll save energy and get a rebate.

You can only deduct $1,500 for any home improvement that includes energy-efficiency,

What are some things people should look out for when hiring a duct cleaner?

A very common one is that they should shop it based on price. I get these things in the mail all the time – everyone does – that advertise $195 whole-house duct cleaning. It’s not going to happen. You’re not going to get a good duct cleaning for $200. Never.

The average system is going to require two workers, maybe three, a lot of expensive equipment and it going to take them at least five or six hours. If you’re paying your workers a reasonable wage and you’ve got this big expensive piece of equipment on the ground and a truck and everything that goes behind it, you can’t run a business and provide that kind of service for $200 and make any money.

When people sign up for these $200 whole-house duct cleaning things, one of two things happens: Either they get a really, really, terrible cleaning job – they come in there and they’re out. They brush the ducts down, they leave a bunch of junk behind and they call it a day. Or, more likely, the crew arrives in the house and they start jacking up the price.

They say, well, the $200 was for 15 vents. Now we have 30 vents in your house and each additional vent is $10. That’s 15 more vents, now we’re up $150. And that didn’t include cleaning the coils and if we clean the coils, that’s an extra $75. And that didn’t include any sanitizing and you’ve got mold. So if we sanitize now we’re up to – and they just do that. They jack it up. It is bait and switch. I tell consumers, if you’ve got a modestly sized house, 2,500 square feet or larger, don’t expect to pay less than $500. You’re probably going to pay between $500 and $1,000. If you’ve got a dual-zone system, you’re going to pay more, maybe twice as much because it’s two jobs. It’s not an inexpensive proposition.

What kind of anecdotal evidence have you heard about duct cleaning and air quality?

When I was with the NADCA, I talked to consumers every single day about duct cleaning, and I kept hearing, “I had my ducts cleaned and I feel better. Or, my daughter is asthmatic, and since we had the ducts cleaned, she has fewer asthma attacks.”

It just makes sense. Look under your refrigerator – what’ sunder there? A bunch of dust. You haven’t cleaned it in a year or two. Your duct work is the same way. All the air you breath in your house flows through the duct work.

Dust is going to deposit when the system is off, when you turn it on, the bolt of air will pick up the loose dust and carry it out into the air stream. It’s anecdotal, but it’s also common sense. If you’ve got a tube filled with dust, and you blow air through it, dusty air is going to come through the other end. I tell people that duct cleaning is just part of the solution to improving your air quality.

Assuming you have good filters, how is dust getting into the ducts in the first place?

There’s two places you find filters: Most is at the furnace. The reason to put the filter there was to prevent dust from gunking up the mechanical components of the unit. It’s not there to keep your air clean. It’s there to keep the system running well. Those systems are there to remove the rocks and marbles out of the air, but not the fine particulate.

If you’ve got a filter with 80 percent efficiency, which is very small, what about the last 20 percent? There are very few filters that are going to be of such significant filtration efficiency that they can catch it all.

In others, there’s a filter just before it blows in the room. And in those systems, it catches the dirt just before it gets into the room. But you don’t see that air filtered on the supply side. The side that brings the air into the room.

How big a difference does duct cleaning make to the actual duct cleanliness?

It can be quite sizeable. I get to see lots of pictures of before-and after duct cleaning. Look at your filter. One side is white, the other side is gray with dirt and dust that it’s caught. It’s the same way in the duct work. From that perspective, it’s like anything else, if you knew you had a big accumulation of dust somewhere in your house, you’d say, ew, gross, I want to clean it. But it’s out of sight and out of mind, and people don’t realize it’s there until they see it blowing out of the system. Or if they look down in the register and say, ooh, look at all that stuff down there.

If you’re not sure, it’s not real complicated, if you have floor registers just take a flashlight and a mirror on a stick and you can look and see for yourself how dusty the ducts are.

The only way you’re going to know is by having it inspected. At the same time you’re having your annual inspection on your equipment, have the tech do a cleanliness inspection. In a home with allergies or several animals, I’d say, have that done every other year. If there’s no pets, no allergies, no smokers, they may be on the five to 10 year plan.

It’s about cleanliness in the home. If you don’t vacuum your carpet except for once or twice a month, you’re going to have dirtier ducts. People who are good housekeepers and keep a clean house are going to need to have their ducts cleaned less often than people who don’t.

Another common problem that comes up is, how do I find out who’s a good duct cleaner? I might get lucky and find some recommendation on Angie’s List. I should look for their license. Wrong. There’s no state licensing for duct cleaning. What there is, is about half the states in the country, a little more, have AC contractor’s licenses, so I tell people to first seek a duct cleaner who’s also a licensed AC contractor. They know best how to open up a system and monkey around with it. Most AC techs have gone through an associate’s degree program and learn the mechanics of AC. In the states that do require a license to do mechanical contracting or AC contracting work, the laws say to cut a hole in the ductwork, you have to have that license. You can’t clean an air duct without cutting holes. They’re going to cut them open and patch them up.

Air leakage is a big problem in homes. If you’re going to have someone cutting big holes in your ductwork, you want that person to be licensed and knowledgeable. If Angie’s List or the BBB can’t help, look for that licensing. Also look for voluntary certification like the NADCA. NADCA only certifies people, not companies. If you’re using someone, you’ll want to say, hey, I want a certified NADCA worker at my house. If you’re sending out a crew of two guys and neither are certified, it doesn’t do me much good.

NADCA’s position is a lot more proactive than EPA. Their position is that duct work needs to be cleaned more often. They’ve recently been pushing the service from the energy efficiency point of view.

Call ACCA, acca.org, who set the American national standard for duct cleaning, they’re an ANSI member, they set an ANSI-approved standard. NADCA also has a standard. It’s not ANSI, but it’s been around longer. If you know much about the ANSI process, you have to invite all the stakeholders to the table, it takes a longer time, you end up with a standard that’s got everybody’s input.

When people say, which standard should I have my contractor follow, I say, have them follow both, but in my mind, ACCA trumps the NADCA standard because it’s the American national standard. In my opinion, if there’s two standards and one isn’t, I’m going with the ANSI standard every time.

Angie’s List is an awesome resource, and I talk to a lot of consumers about mold remediation, and they often tell me that they found someone good on Angie’s List.

Paul F.P. Pogue, Angie’s List associate editor
Interview with Tim Rogers, Dublin, Ohio (Angie’s List Columbus member)
April 3, 2009

Tell me about your experience with the duct cleaning company.

We bought a 10-year-old home and the people that lived here had three dogs. Just before we moved in, I had to replace the carpet. I went back and forth about having the ducts cleaned. This was before I was part of Angie’s List. I read an ad in the paper and decided to go ahead and do it because of the dogs.

They had this ad in the paper, an $85 special. So I had them come to the house. It was like waiting for Time Warner cable, you sit and wait for three hours. They got here and they started dragging in this big hose, it was like having your carpet cleaned. As they started to get ready, this guy pulls out some paperwork and says to me, “Well, $85 only covers three vents.” It also covered cleaning the furnace itself.

There were two guys and I felt, well if they’ve got their stuff in the door here, we’ve got a moving truck that’s arriving here in the next couple days and I want to get this done. We’re staying in a hotel and I just said, “Well, all right, let’s do it.”

They just literally ran from vent to vent. It was just amazing to me. These two guys were hustling to get the job done and get out.

At the time, we were new to the area, we didn’t know anybody so this was the first time I was hit with not getting any recommendations. Actually, this is what brought me to Angie’s List is this incident here.

The work they did was just, one guy’s unscrewing the air returns – very easy, the ones in the floor, of course, they just lift right up. They just ran a hose down there. One of the things they claim is they’re disinfecting it. When we got downstairs, they had this little old spray bottle and sprayed a little into the air vent, which of course will go through house and make it smell a little different. But, the house didn’t smell bad to begin with. I said to them, “If that’s what you’re going to do, just spray a little bit because I don’t want to be inhaling that for the next three months.”

Did they use any tools on the job besides the hose?

The tools that they used, they just put this long hose in and … it just kind of twirled. Supposedly it’s beating the dust around and they vacuum it out. But, when everything was said and done, especially when they got to the heater I was really disappointed because all this guy did was pull the front of the furnace off and just spayed a can of air, which I could have done. It’s kind of like the can of air you use to clean your computer out. When we got done, the bill was $480. I’m usually very tough and would get into an argument, but I was just like, “The heck with it, I’ve been taken here.” So I wrote them out a check for $480, and there was no difference. One of the air return vents, which was down low near the wall, and it must have been where one of the dogs had spent a lot of time there. I actually did see them pull a lot of hair out of there. But [that was about it.]

What did you know about duct cleaning before this experience?

I had a friend warn me about this. He remodels homes and he told me that he sees where that he sees where they come in and drill a hole down into the basement and stick some tube up there to vacuum it out. He’s usually pulling them down after this is done, because he has to redo all the work down there to put a drop ceiling in and he says it’s just full of dirt. He just laughs at what these guys get away with. I should have listened to him and I didn’t. I ended up paying for it — $480. If it wasn’t $480 it was $430. I actually posted it on Angie’s List. It was a lot of money, considering [it was] an $85 special.

That’s the only bad report I had to post on Angie’s List and that’s because I didn’t get their name from Angie’s List as far as I’m concerned. When I did sign up for Angie’s List, I did find them. When I put their phone number in [to an Angie’s List search] it matched up with this other company and then I found other bad ratings.

My friend who’s been remodeling for more than 30 years just says all these homes that have supposedly had this work done, he feels it’s one of the biggest ripoffs out there. I feel the same way from my experience.

What were your thoughts on the cleaning itself?

It was just a like vacuum that ran from a truck so I figured it had some really good suction. That device they put in there was like a little round ball on the end and when they got downstairs where they could pull the end off of one of the air returns, they put this thing in and it kind of beats it up inside. You could hear it banging. Supposedly it’s supposed to be loosening up all the dirt.

I didn’t notice any difference after the filters. I change the filters every two or three months. Nothing ever changed after that or before that. It didn’t seem any different after they were done.

By the time I gave them the check they had left our front entrance inside the house a mess. I asked them to clean it up. They were just in such a hurry to get out of here. That was a bad experience. The y were here 90 minutes at the most. When I got back inside and went upstairs the cold air return vent was hanging down. I had to get on a chair and put this vent back up. Then, some of the floor vents…they hadn’t put them back in place. So, I really feel like I was taken for a ride there.

We’ve had no bad experiences going on Angie’s List. It’s just that one I didn’t get to check before getting on Angie’s List.

Any thoughts on duct cleaning after all this?

I’ll never do it again. I don’t want to say that things were worse, but they certainly weren’t any better. Raising all that dust, when I think of it, doesn’t seem really sensible to me. As far as their reach with that hose, I could have taken the vents off and done it myself.

I envisioned a lot more for the $85 especially when we were done it was $430. They’re not even certified to work on a furnace. If you’re going to take a can of air and blow some dust off, I don’t really think we’re doing a fantastic job of cleanup or tuneup. It would be better to hire a professional who does that exclusively.

It’s like I just rolled down the window and threw 20-dollar bills out the window. Lesson learned, and thankfully now there’s Angie’s List, I always turn to it.


Posted: 9/21/2009 7:15:12 AM By Jeremy Stacy | 0 comments | Transcript

Jeremy Stacy, online content producer
Interview with Ron Staffa, general manager of Nyberg Exteriors
Sept. 2, 2009

Ron Staffa: My name is Ron Staffa and the company I work for is Nyberg Exteriors. My title is general manager and I’m also in charge of research and development of new products.

Jeremy Stacy: What is the most common material used for replacement windows?

RS: The most common material used today is vinyl for a replacement window.

JS: Why?

RS: I believe it's price. It's also got a lot to with the people who are selling vinyl windows seem to be making them sound like they're the greatest window, which is not always the case.

In my opinion the most durable window that's made today would be a fiberglass window. The advantage to a fiberglass window is minimal expansion and contraction and maximum strength. It's stronger than steel, but you don't have the expansion and contraction you would with a vinyl window. And because the whole window is fiberglass, you have all the same materials that are bonded together so you don't have dissimilar expansion and contraction in relation to say an exterior aluminum clad window and the interior is wood. Those two materials will expand and contract at different rates. That can cause problems over time.

I think most of the time when we're replacing a window, it's because people are just tired of their old, worn out windows. They say they don't go up and down the way they used to. “They need to be painted.” “I don't like the stain that's on them.” It's mainly aesthetic.

It's more of a touchy feely thing and with energy prices the way they've been over the last couple of years, people were really sensitive to the idea that they could save money by replacing what they have with a vinyl window.

That's not always the case. Windows are extremely difficult to insulate well. Windows are kind of strange. They're not rated the way the rest of the house is. Everything else is rated in R-value – the resistance of transmission of thermal material from change in temperature. I think probably the window industry came up with their rating because the R-rating of the very best window is so low that homeowners wouldn't be thinking that it’s an advantage to replace them.

From my understanding, the highest R-value on the highest rated thermal window is anywhere in the area of R-5 to R-6 and the government is mandating a minimum on new construction of R-21 in the walls.

I think a lot of the people that sell windows – mostly vinyl windows that have these super deals and attractions – they're working on people's emotions to get them all excited and pumped up to sell the products more on an emotional level instead of a practical one. 

Really, when everything is said and done, if somebody has an older home that has windows that can be refurbished, they're far better off refurbishing them than putting in a vinyl window. A good example would be to refurbish the interior of the window, replace the chains or the ropes and weights so the windows function properly mechanically. And if you put on a storm window, a nice new storm window, you are going to be very close to the R-value of the very best window on the market today. Most people don't know that.

I'm kind of the non-salesman salesman. I'm the one that if I'm in someone's house and they say, "I've been saving my money forever and I would really love to have new windows. I just can't afford these utility bills anymore," I'm going to tell them, "Don't put your money in windows. Let's see how much insulation you've got in your attic."

There's another company that I own and we do thermal imaging. For $200 we come in and test the house with a thermal imaging camera and we can see exactly what's leaking and for just a question of hundreds of dollars you can fix leaks and insulation and get a better payoff than you would spending a lot of money on windows. I don't like people to be taken advantage of – myself, the elderly, anybody.

In the window industry, there are a lot of sharks that go out there and all they want to do is make money with total disregard to the people they're selling the product to. I'm not going to say they're lying, but they could be advocates for improving this person's home without going to extremes.

JS: How do you decide if a window needs to be replaced?

RS: We sell plenty of windows. The big thing is, I think people just want them to function again. There's not a lot of people who refurbish windows anymore. I've never had somebody ask me. I wouldn't even know who to refer them to. I've done it on my own, but I don't want to do it as a business.

Let's say a customer calls in and I'll call them back and I'll say, "Do you have an idea of what kind of window you want?" Sometimes they'll know exactly what they want and we just go and we measure them and we quote them, which is fine. We don't really go around giving advice unless people ask for it. I think it's a great way to raise your kids, too. You know, let them get bruises and bumps on their own. I've been to visit too many customers where I'm telling them what I think they should do and I think they think that I'm just crazy or not interested.

I've had people say, "Gee, you really sound like you're not interested in selling us something," because I'm basically telling them they don't need new windows. But they wanted them, so I'm sure somebody sold them new windows.

I'd say that in general, we will only use products where the manufacturer gives good service. I don't mean to give a bum rap on anybody, but there's very few companies out that give very good service. They run customers around, they don't come out to fix the windows.

The window is a mechanical thing. It's not like a roof that just sits. You open and close it. You lock it. The kids’ baseball hits it. It's more sensitive to impact than most things in your house and it can need repair. To me, it's by the [window manufacturer] as much as the window.

JS: How can you make sure you're getting a good manufacturer?

RS: That's very difficult. The Internet is fabulous. There are no boundaries to the knowledge that you can gain if you can read. People can visit the website for the manufacturer that makes the windows and every manufacturer describes their window as the best. You don't really know until you buy it what's the best. I'd say you've got to trust the company that's installing the window.

I think you should always buy from a company where the person that comes out and quotes the windows for you is the one that's there making sure they get installed properly. A lot of companies, you see the salesman and he sells the work and you never see him again.

The salesperson or the project manager has got to be there. He measures the windows and he specifying and he's got to make sure that they get installed properly. You've really got to count on that guy.

I had a really super customer a couple of years ago – an elderly gentleman, just really chatty. I would go and visit him whenever I had a chance in the neighborhood. There was a large Midwestern window manufacturer that this gentleman called and their salesman came out and this gentleman ordered windows for his whole house to be replaced.

A few months after that, I visited him to give him a quote for siding and the siding we needed to install came up against the windows and I pointed out how we had to redo the exteriors on all the windows. They weren't plumb. It was a very poor installation.

I hate to bring that up to anybody because to me you're insulting them because now they don't like you because they made a choice and they're thinking "Now you made me look bad." I asked him who installed the windows and he told me the name of the company and he said, "Ron, but I loved this salesman. I would have bought anything in the world if he told me I needed it. He was just a master salesman. When he walked out the door, I bowed."

There are some real slick guys out there and they can talk a lot of people into a lot of things. That's going to happen today, tomorrow, forever. To me, that's what's good about Angie's List because people can see what other people are saying and the experience they're having.

The only bad thing I have to say about Angie's List is they need to get more people giving [reports]. I would say we have one out of 30 people submit a report. People need that. They need to know that so and so came out and I wouldn't even let them in the door. All you hear is, I hired them and they did a good job or they didn't do a good job. What about these other people that they saw that didn't use?

I watch the List a lot because it keeps us on task. It's just a super barometer of letting us know where we stand with people. It's helped us become a better company.

JS: How do you help homeowners decide whether or not to get new windows?

RS: We get a few emails off our website where people will ask for a quote and I will email them back and ask for different information. The email I sent to a person this morning in regard to their window quote was "Why do you want to replace the windows?" I listed questions. Is it because you don't like the way the windows you have right now look? Is it because the windows are drafty? Is it because the windows don't function? Is it because you want to save energy?

I think if someone wants to save energy, you don't go to your windows. These big companies that advertise on television and everything, they try to make everyone think that replacing your windows is just going to be a major advantage in lowering their heating and air conditioning costs and it's not.

JS: What does help with energy costs?

RS: It depends on the age of the house. Insulation. Air infiltration around the windows. Air infiltration in general in the wall. Those are the kinds of things that can be tested for and is something that the general public doesn't ask for too much.

Everyone needs to ask themselves why are we replacing the window? The wife might say, "I'm just tired of these windows. I'm tired of cleaning them." And that's a good point. An older window isn't going to be a tilt in window. A vinyl window is going to be easy to clean. But, do you want to go out and spend $20,000 on windows for your whole house when you can spend $150 a year to have them all cleaned?

The same holds true for the people that want these gutter guards to keep leaves out of their gutters. I'll quote a gutter guard installation and it's $1,500, $2,000, $3,000 and they're like "Oh great, I'll never have to get on the ladder again." And I say, "You ever had them cleaned?"

"No, I've never had them cleaned."

"Well, why don't you get a quote for cleaning your gutters?" You can have your gutters cleaned for $100. What is that, 30 years or more worth of gutter cleaning?

You know what, Jeremy, nothing is perfect. No window is going to be perfect. People just need to be more aware of how they spend their money, where they put it. Don't let somebody convince you of something that you need, when it comes to saving energy especially.

If it's something that you just love and want to have – I mean there's beautiful windows that I would say "Gosh, I would love to have those windows. They're so pretty and they would complement my home” – great, do it, that's super. But for somebody that just wants to save energy, no, it's not your window.

You don't replace your window for a value of what's 2-R. A window that you have right now has an R-value of three and you go to a five with a new window. That's not practical. If you have an R-value five in your wall and you can convert it to 21, now we're talking.

There's just one other thing that I want to tell the general public. When you're with a person – your initial contact with a company that has come to your home to sell you windows – I think you want to be proactive and ask the right kinds of questions about what you're really gaining from this person and their installation.

You want to try and work with someone who's really interested in doing something for you that's going to help you the best way that it can. And ask the questions like, "Gee, do I really need new windows?" "Am I really going to be saving money every month in my heating and air conditioning?"

When they give an answer, ask them what that's based on because if anybody is telling people they're going to be saving 20 percent on their heating and air conditioning with a window, I have not found anything to back that up. I'd love to.

I always want to try to be the person that is selling something that's a tangible product. I love to save money because the more money you save, the more money you have to spend on your family and the things that you love and appreciate.

People have to stop and think, how much are you going to love and appreciate the $20,000 in these windows? Windows are very expensive.

Don't buy from a salesman, buy from somebody that just wants to help you. If the guy's a salesman, he's obviously there to gain something from you and that's his main concern. If he's there to help you, he's going to make money too. Everybody needs someone to help them with something. Every home I've been in, there's always something that we can help them with.

If you just continually guide someone to what is the proper installation for the job, they'll always come back to you and say you're the guy that was honest enough to tell me five years ago that I didn't need windows and look at how nice they are. We had them repainted, everything's great and now we want our siding done and we trusted you enough to call you back.


Jeremy Stacy, online content producer
Interview with Rhonda Steffes, owner of New Windows for America
Sept. 2, 2009

Rhonda Steffes: Rhonda Steffes, New Windows for America. I'm the owner and vice-president.

Jeremy Stacy: What are the most common types of replacement windows?

RS: Today most windows are replaced with vinyl. The reason is because vinyl is energy efficient, green because you never have to replace it again. There are some people who do wood windows. We do some of them, but I would say 95 percent of everything we sell is vinyl.

JS: When you say they last a lifetime, how long do you mean?

RS: The life span of the [vinyl] window is for the life of the home.

JS: What are trends you’re seeing with replacement windows?

RS: I guess people are looking more and more for something more energy efficient as the price of heating and cooling their home goes up. They're also looking for something to decrease those costs so they're putting in something more energy efficient. I'd say that's more of the trend than anything else. That's everyone's No. 1 concern.

A lot of times they feel drafts or it's cool around their windows or their energy bills are high. New windows can decrease energy costs by anywhere from 20 to 50 percent. There's also triple-pane windows out there that can make your home even more energy efficient.

JS: What are reasons to get replacement windows?

RS: A lot of times they will have frost or mold in their windows. Condensation. Cracked glass. Sometimes people already so have double-paned glass, but they're older or made out of wood and a lot of times there's seal failure in between the two panes of glass. That means the seal is broken and they're not getting the energy efficiency they once were.

JS: Does age of the home have a factor in deciding whether to repair or replace the window?

RS: No, not really. We're replacing windows in houses built in the late 1800s to anything built in the early 2000s.The more modern the house, it seems like the more problems people have with their windows.They're not built as well as they were in the years past.

JS: How can people looking to get new windows make sure they're getting something of quality?

I guess you want to look and see what the energy efficiency ratings are on the windows. Right now with the tax credits, the requirements are for the window to have a solar heat gain coefficient of .30 or less and a U-value, which measures the amount of heat being lost through the window, of .30 or less. Those are real good qualities to look for and make sure they have before you put them into your home.

JS: Is there a time when it's better to repair a window rather than replace it?

RS: I guess if they were high quality windows that were put in in the first place that have low-e and argon in them, you may want to just repair them. But if the windows are more than 10 or 15 years old, you’re better off replacing them because of the energy efficiencies that are put in the windows now that weren't required 10 years ago.

The only other time you would maybe want to repair the window is if you live in a historical district. A lot of the historical areas do not allow a vinyl replacement to be put in and they will only allow you to repair the window.

JS: What are some benefits of a replacement window?

RS: You actually get a 73 percent return on investment so what realtors have found is that something people are looking for is energy-efficient, maintenance-free windows. You don't have to paint them. They're maintenance-free. They're easier to clean. You can flip it in and clean the outside windows from the inside of the house. Also, you don't need storm windows anymore, which improves the look of the home.

Remodeler Magazine puts out different remodeling projects that people can do in their home and what's the best value – what you get back as a percentage. If you're going to turn around and sell your house within the first year [of the remodel] and you put in $10,000 worth of windows, you would get at least $7,300 dollars back if you sold it within the first year [of the remodel]. Siding is usually No. 1 and windows and kitchen are usually No. 2.

JS: Can you recoup your investment on energy savings alone?

RS: You need to figure out what your energy bill is per year. If you save 30 percent per year, it would take a couple of years, but you eventually get them paid for on their own by just the energy efficiency.

JS: Can you repair replacement windows?

RS: Yeah, everything can be repaired. Most companies, including our own, have a warranty — a lifetime warranty — on [the windows].

JS: What are some tips to select a quality installer?

RS: When you're selecting an installer for windows, a good thing to look for is somebody that's been certified through an association like the American Window and Door Institute or have some type of training certificate would be good to look for. Years of experience and making sure they're a licensed contractor is probably No. 1.

I suppose a red flag would be if they tell them it's not necessary to pull a permit or it's not necessary to be licensed. That would be a good indication to run the other way.

JS: How long does it take to install a window?

RS: That's a good question. The opening is only open 10 or 15 minutes. The time consumption comes from trimming it out and putting the new trim on the exterior and the interior. One window probably takes on average an hour to two hours based on the experience of the installer.

JS: What about the average price of a double-hung, double-pane vinyl window?

JS: I'd say the average price for a window is $400 to $600 depending on the size and that's usually including installation.

JS: What can homeowners do to care for their windows and extend their life?

RS: With a vinyl window there is virtually no maintenance that needs to be done. Just good old Windex.


Jeremy Stacy, online content producer
Interview with Kathy Krafka-Harkema, spokesperson for Pella Window and Door
Aug. 31, 2009

Kathy Krafka-Harkema: My name is Kathy Krafka-Harkema and I'm a spokesperson for Pella Windows and Doors.

Jeremy Stacy: What are the common materials used in replacement windows?

KKH: Well there's a variety of types and styles of windows and door available made from a variety of materials. Everything from vinyl to fiberglass to wood to wood that's protected with aluminum cladding. So it's important to take into consideration your climate, your budget and your style of home when you're choosing the material that's right for you and your home.

JS: What is the most common material used?

KKH: All of the materials are very common. I would say fiberglass windows are newer to the market so you would tend to see more vinyl windows and more windows on the market today, but fiberglass windows are growing in popularity.

JS: How does region play a role in choosing windows?

KKH: You might live in a climate like the Pacific Northwest where it rains all the time so a vinyl window might be a great choice for a wet rainy climate condition or perhaps a climate like Florida. On the other extreme, you might have the extreme heat like Arizona and you might want a product like fiberglass that can really withstand the extremes in terms of heat.

Or you might want the natural warmth and beauty of wood so choosing wood might be the best option for you. And when it's protected with aluminum cladding on the exterior, you can get a variety of colors on the exterior, the protection of the aluminum cladding, but that natural appeal of wood on the interior.

JS: What are the trends in replacement windows?

KKH: One of the biggest trends we're seeing in windows today is people are viewing them as not just a functional item in their home, but also a fashion statement. By that we mean they're accessorizing the window. They're adding stylish grills to convey everything from a contemporary look to a colonial look. People are also accessorizing with screens. A screen that is so sheer that it's nearly invisible is a popular new trend.

JS: What are signs it's time to replace your windows?

KKH: If you feel cold air coming in or around your window, it might be a sign that it's time for that window to go. Or if you see water stains coming in and around the window, again it might be time to replace it with an energy efficient option. If you've got a single-pane window, when it comes to energy efficiency you can do much better with double-or triple pane options. 

In fact, now is a great time to think about replacing windows because the U.S. government is offering tax credits for replacing those old, inefficient options with more energy efficient options. You can claim a tax credit of up to $1,500 or 30 percent of the cost of the replacement windows like those with the Energy Star or those approved by the government now through 2010.

JS: Is it ever better to repair a window?

KKH: That's going to depend on case-by-case basis. If there's no issue with moisture infiltration into your wall cavity and the window frame itself is intact, you can get a pocket replacement application that allows you to keep your interior trim or wall paper intact, but yet get a more energy efficient window in there.

What you want to do is work with your construction professional or if you’re a do-it-yourselfer, really take a look and see ­­– has the window itself degraded? Has moisture gotten into the wall cavity? If you're seeing those signs, it’s typically a sign that you should do what's called a full tear-out or a full replacement. Likewise, if it's just maybe a sash that's worn, you could do a pocket-type application.

JS: What about older homes in historic districts?

KKH: The beauty is that companies like Pella can make a window that looks like those of historic days gone by, but have the energy efficiency of today's technology. You might be able to replicate the look of a window made 100 years ago and still have today's energy efficiency.

You want to work with you local preservationist and any local building codes that are in effect in your area and you can choose windows that have a very classic look or a very contemporary look depending on your specific code requirements in your area.

We make windows in quarter inch increments. What that means is if your home was built 100 years ago and those sizes that were popular back then, but aren't quite so popular today, we can still make the sizes you need to fit the openings to help seal out air and moisture for the best overall fit and energy efficiency.

JS: What are some benefits of replacement windows?

KKH: You can take a bite out of your utility bill with selecting a well-made, properly installed window. You want to upgrade in terms of panes of glass to go to at least a double-pane or in some cases a triple-pane option with argon for additional efficiency.

Also, today's windows are safer. They tilt in for cleaning in the case of double hung windows. That means you don't have to get up and get outside on a ladder to clean your windows. There are also casement models ­– many people call those crank out models – and they open more fully to allow you to clean both the interior and exterior of the glass from the inside of your home. 

Really, there's many more innovations in today's windows that can help you update the look of your home and add to the value of it. Things like blinds and shades between the panes of glass mean that you have the beauty and style and the flexibility to change those blinds or shades.

When you have blinds or shades protected between glass, you're also accumulating fewer airborne allergens. That's a good thing for people with asthma or allergies or pets or children in the home. Or for people who would just rather do something other than spend time cleaning those blinds and shades.

And you can also have grills that are in between the panes of glass as well. So you have the look of individual panes and divided light, but the ease of cleaning a single interior and exterior surface. Grills ad more character to your home. They add a look of distinction. And, you can have many different grill styles.

In addition to those that are in between the panes of glass, you can have grill that are either permanently adhered to the exterior of the glass, or removable grills so that you can have a colonial look today and a contemporary look tomorrow.

JS: What is the typical life span of a replacement window?

KKH: That's going to vary by product. You're going to want to consult your manufacturer's warranty. Other things that can affect the performance of a window are just your climate, the type of exposure it has to the elements. For example, if you're in a cold climate and you get a lot of snow, a lot of rain, it's exposed to a lot of sunlight, that product may have a different life-span than a product that isn't exposed to as many harsh elements.

JS: Can replacement windows be repaired?

KKH: You want to look at your specific manufacturer. We maintain parts long after we manufacture them. If you're moving into an existing home and you've got Pella windows, you may notice there's a handle missing from a casement crank window, Pella maintains parts for products long after we manufacture them. So just check with your manufacturer. You can replace window sashes, but it's going to depend on what the part is.

To keep your window performing at its best, there are things you can do in terms of maintenance. As we're going into the fall months, it's a good time to give your windows and doors a check up just like you take yourself in for a checkup or your car in for a checkup periodically.

What you want to do is test them. Make sure they open quickly and easily, but they close completely. One good thing to do is when you're cleaning the glass on the windows, always select a cleaner that's vinegar-based rather than one that's ammonia-based. A vinegar-based cleaner will help keep the glass surfaces clean. The danger in using ammonia-based cleaners is they can actually cloud the glass and end up attracting more dirt. Clean glass is more energy efficient too.

Likewise, you'll want to sweep the tracks free of any dirt or debris. A lot of times leaves can get in there. Just take a dry paintbrush and brush that out. Or, if there's more dirt and debris there, just take the brush attachment of your vacuum and clean out those tracks for greater energy efficiency.

JS: How should you go about looking for a replacement window and installer?

KKH: Well, you want to look for a well-made product that's designed and tested to perform. You want to read the warranty that the manufacturer provides to understand explicitly what it does and doesn't cover. You want to do business with a company that has a good reputation and that will be in business in the future. Ways to determine that are to check references. Do your research.

Also check with your Better Business Bureau. Look for things like the J.D. Power and Associates ranking of customer satisfaction. Then, ask your neighbors. You really do want to do your homework to get the most for your time and your money and to get a product that is not only selected well for you home, but one that is installed properly for the best performance.

JS: What's the typical price of a standard double-hung, dual-pane replacement window?

That price is going to vary depending on the material you choose and the options you select like grills and blinds and shades. The best thing to do is get a qualified expert into your home to measure the size that you need for proper fit and then do some comparison shopping yourself comparing the materials and options that are the best fit for your house.

But, you get what you pay for when it comes to windows and doors. It's very important to select quality-made, designed and tested materials because a window and a door are two things that are actually seen from both the inside and outside of your home. You use a door every day. Windows allow natural light and air into your home and help protect it from the elements.

When you want to determine how much to invest in windows and doors, look at the best you can afford. Also check with your utility company. Many are offering rebates for replacing old inefficient windows with more energy efficient options. And now is the time to collect the U.S. tax credit now through the end of 2010 for making those energy upgrades.

A window or door will pay for itself through increased energy efficiency so you can take a bite out of that utility bill every month with a more efficient option. It also helps keep your home warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer.

JS: Is there anything else you would like to add about windows?

A couple of other things when it comes to maintenance and checking your windows and doors, you'll want to look for the interior and exterior finishes around your windows and doors. If you see flaking and peeling paint, it may mean that its time to refinish the unit or it may be time to replace it all together.

You'll also want to pay attention to the caulk around the windows and doors. You want to make sure your caulk is in place to seal out air and moisture.

If you live in a coastal location, keep in mind the effects of salt spray and [salt] fog can damage components in your home so you may want to rinse those units off with clear water from time to time to help reduce the effects of salt spray and salt fog.

Bottom line, regardless of the type of window or door you choose, its essential to install it properly for best performance. Windows and doors are not only a beautiful item in our home and allow us access to our home, but the can also be an emergency escape route in the event a fire or other emergency. It's important to designate a window and door in every room in your home as an emergency exit and then to plan and practice a home escape drill at least a couple of times a year. Those windows and doors that don't open and close easily are candidates for replacement.

I do have a couple of other thoughts on choosing a contractor. As you're thinking about tackling your remodeling project, some things to think about are will this project add to the overall curb appeal of your home or its value? Can you increase energy efficiency and help reduce energy costs? Will the improvement help make your home more comfortable. And, will it help you cut your maintenance time and expense overall. Those are things to think about when you're remodeling.

If you're think about who to work with on a remodeling project, you may want to think about retaining an architect or a designer if you're thinking about a major facelift for your home. You want to ask for referrals from a reputable contractor and you want to check credentials.

It's really key when working with a contractor to have open, consistent communication. You want to agree on a plan with your contractor, determine the exact needs for your home project — a schedule, a timeline, and then a budget. You want to understand before you get started what your project is likely to cost, when it's likely to be completed and then solicit bids for your project.

Do your comparison shopping upfront and understand how to get the most for your time and for your money.

Posted: 9/14/2009 12:01:22 AM By Listen! | 0 comments | Transcript

Jeremy Stacy, “Listen!” associate producer
Ed Sanchez, owner, Window Restoration and Repair, Los Alamitos, Calif.
Interview – Aug. 6, 2009

Ed Sanchez: My name is Ed Sanchez and my company is Window Restoration and Repair. My location is in Los Alamitos, Calif.

Jeremy Stacy: How long have you been in the window business?

ES: Since 1983. I started out working for a window manufacturer of aluminum windows.

After being in that business for [nearly 15 years] … I eventually decided to start [restoring windows] because it fits better with my personality. I'm the kind of guy who will keep a car for 330,000 miles before changing it out so it works for me to repair things rather than replace them. I guess it was a sort of green way of thinking before I knew what green was.

I realized that the windows I was pulling out for 10 to 15 years were actually better ,longevity-wise, than the windows I was putting in. It's not so much the face of the vinyl windows, it's the plastic injected molded parts that assemble the window that bring the problems. And being how those companies don't think like General Motors where they keep parts for 20 years, many times in order to keep up with the trends, they're changing parts every single year and they're not going to keep parts for a 10-year-old window.

JS: Why do homeowners come to you to fix their windows?

ES: The common reason why they come to me is they want to maintain the architecture of their home and they're afraid if they change them out, it will change. It will change the look of their home. It's very much a visual thing I think because the newer windows look different. Even the new wood windows look different.

There are other reasons. Some people come to me because of the fact that they don't want to spend the money on new windows. It's just simply an economic reason.

Sometimes they come to me because the windows are just literally not working and they're burning up in the summer or they're leaking air and sometimes water and they need to deal with it because it's causing problems. All of these things are very, very fixable.

Sometimes they have wood rot problems that can be repaired. In some cases it makes more sense to replace certain wood than to go through the work of using epoxies and things like that, which is what I use if I'm dealing with damaged wood.

JS: What's the difference between restoration and repair?

ES: As far as we're concerned they're very similar. For the restoration, it's a two-part thing. It's the operation of the window and the structural integrity. The visual and the painting aspects of the window, there are many, many painters that love to do that sort of thing so we leave the painting aspect of the restoration to the painters and I refer people all the time.

We deal with the stuff they can't do, which is normally the physical manipulation of the window and the structural integrity of it and also just the plain, simple operation of it.

A lot of times the operation can be made to be much better than the day it was new in 1928. There are little tricks that have made them able to operate even better than they would back then because of some technology changes — lubricants and adjustment techniques.

JS: What kind of windows do you restore?

ES: I restore a lot of wood windows, double-hung windows and the ones that go up and down. I repair a lot of casement windows. From the 1920s to the late ’30s there was a lot of in-swinging casement windows [back then]. Those are important that they're adjusted right because they could be the most problematic as far as water infiltration and air [is concerned].

In fact, because of that, many manufacturers don't even want to touch those so many times you won't even see those again, which is another reason to keep them because they're going to be more unique every single year.

Another beauty of those in-swinging casement windows is that they're sort of romantic. It's a style that has kind of gone away.

JS: How do you charge for your work?

ES: There's a basic charge for what we call a tune-up. In the tune-up we pretty much restore it to the original operation of the window back when it was new. That's the majority of what we do.

In some cases, the wood is so bad it makes sense to replace that portion of the window. Not the whole window, just that portion — perhaps the sash — that's the part that wraps around the glass.

In some cases, near the ocean, we have to replace hardware, which has rusted or corroded. I must say, other than just on the ocean, if a window has been fitted properly — which can change over time — houses settle and they change the shape of the sash and the window has to be adjusted — when they're adjusted, the hardware should last 50 years plus because there's nothing to wear it down. But, if it doesn't close and you're cranking that thing shut, that's when you're going to have problems with sticking and putting stress on the hardware.

We're getting the operation of the window like it was when it was new. We're making sure that it structurally is worth painting and keeping up indefinitely. And if it isn't, then we end up letting them know that it doesn't make sense to fix this. We should replace that one. In some cases, I just replace one out of 25 windows.

JS: What factors must homeowners weigh when deciding between restoration and replacement?

ES: If they care about [originality], number one. Another one is if the whole neighborhood has changed out windows and if the home is a newer style home and it's not such a factor to have older windows, sometimes it just makes more sense to replace them.

It has more to do with the architecture of the home. Many homes after the 1950s, some of those, the way they were constructed and all, it's not so desirable because the wood that was used after World War II is not of the same grade that was used before the World War II.

The wood is a big thing. The wood of the older style windows came out of old trees. The way a tree works is the older it is, the more toxic the sap is to a bug. The other thing is, these old-style windows, many times, they would dip the timbers in a borate solution, which was wonderful for protecting it against bugs and even mold. Many times it was just an order of business. That's the way they did things back then. They would dip the wood in this borate and let it soak so it would seep in and they could paint over it.

To take something that had that much work put into it and pull it out and put something modern is sometimes not the wisest choice.

Another reason to replace a window is if a person is in a climate where it gets really, really cold. There are things that could be done to the window. On the east coast, they do storm windows, but on the west coast, there's no need for a storm window.

Like in the San Fernando Valley, some people might prefer to have dual pane windows. And another thing, in certain districts the code is you have to replace it. If you replace it, you have no choice. The law is you have to replace with dual. If that's the case you have to be aware of that.

JS: How can homeowners keep their wooden windows operating properly?

ES: One thing is they have to make sure they fit right. If they don't open and close easily, it causes a stress to the wooden joints and if you flex the wooden joints too much, you actually provide a space where moisture can get in.

If the putty that's up against the glass — the wood putty or the glazing putty — lifts from the glass and water gets in behind it, that could end up doing damage to the sash. The sash is the four pieces of wood that's wrapped around the glass.

The way you keep that putty from lifting is that you make sure it's painted properly. There are techniques in painting that in many cases aren't employed because it takes a little more time to paint it properly. But, if you do, you're windows should last a long, long time.

JS: How can homeowners make their windows more energy efficient?

ES: One of the things they should consider is there are ways of adjusting the windows just the way that they are. If they're adjusted properly and fitted properly, they could seat wood to wood with a minimal amount of air infiltration.

Now, there's another step we can take and we do it quite bit where we can now weather strip these old-style wood windows to seal every bit as well as the newer modern type of wooden windows. You can get them to seal well in regards to air infiltration.

The only thing a vinyl or a modern window has going for it is the dual pane aspect. That's just something the older windows don't have. But, as a result of not having dual pane glass, you're never going to get fogging in your older windows. And once you change out your windows, you can never go back. They're not going to let you go back unless you're in a specific historic district.

JS: Is there anything else you’d like to add about window repair?

ES: There are plenty of people who don't have a clue that their windows are good. They just figure that if there's paint chipping, it's garbage because the replacement window business is pretty much predicated on that way of thinking. It's funny because I tell people sometimes that the business I'm in is the penance that I pay for all the beautiful wood windows I used to pull out and put in aluminum and eventually I even put in vinyl thinking that I was doing a good thing. As time went on I saw how many repairs came up as a result of these types of windows, literally within 10 years.

I've been around long enough to see these things come back at me. I had one where I literally changed the window to aluminum and 20 years later, the next people that had bought the home asked me to pull out the aluminum windows — they didn't know I had put them in — and put in wood like it was originally.

The shame about it is I even told them, I said, "I put those in and the sad thing is the windows I'll be putting in aren't even as good as the ones I pulled out." And I didn't know that back then. I thought they were garbage and that was the way I was trained. But in time, let me tell you, it's not garbage. It's really a crying shame that people don't know once it's gone, 10 years later they have fogging in the glass, they got parts coming loose and they just say, "Let's change them again."

And of course, that's great for the replacement business. They get the new thing and the new colored windows and new materials of the decade, but they change them out like people change out computers. It's a shame because those old windows could be sealed up and the only weak point to them is single pane.

If you weigh out the amount of energy savings that you'll benefit from and you amortize it out, in our life times, we will not pay for those windows. We just won't. That's what people have to realize. If they just like to have the newest thing, then fine. You replace you cars every five years, replace your windows every 10-15 years, and you're probably a happy camper.

But, to the guy that wants to buy something and hang on to it — like me — and feel proud of it that it's the original one — or not even that just from a financial standpoint — it's more economical and cost-effective to keep the original stuff. Not to mention, the people that buy an older home, especially today, really care about original.

If they want a modern house, it's very easy to buy a modern house. It's not even that expensive. But to buy an older home, people care about the older things and you get points by having an older window that was made back in 1937 with that home. That's where maintaining and restoring them can really pay off and not just from a personal standpoint of liking the original, but from a financial standpoint of it actually making dollars and cents to keep them.

To the cheapskates of the world and to the purists of the world, it's not just the little tweaky purists that drive Model-T Fords, it's not just those people it's the people that are looking at the dollars and cents.

By the way, if you're going to buy a vinyl window, you have make sure you buy a good one. You're better off buying anything else but a cheap vinyl window because ... of all the windows that I sell, there's a point of diminishing returns where I have to tell people it's just not worth putting money into this product.

Jeremy Stacy, “Listen!” associate producer
Alison Hardy, owner, Window Woman of New England, Topsfield, Mass.,
Interview – Aug. 3, 2009

Alison Hardy: Alison Hardy, Window Woman of New England, we're in Topsfield, Mass. We have been in business for six years.

JS: How did you get into the window restoration business?

AH: My husband and I have owned a series of old houses and I got tired of hearing people say, "Oh, just replace the windows." I said, "I can fix these." So I started fixing ours and I started fixing friends' and I decided it was time to leave the textile industry and fix windows for good.

JS: What’s the most common reason people come to you?

AH: Typically it's because they love the old glass in their windows and they want to save them. Often it's a unique shape like an arch top window or a bowed window that are very difficult and expensive to get these days. It all depends on what the particular house's characteristics are, but typically it's people that love the old glass.

JS: What are common repairs you make?

AH: You know, most of them are very simple. [The windows] don't open. They don't close all the way, which is usually a very simple fix by fixing the ropes on them. Broken glass is another one that happens a lot. Usually it's just that the windows are difficult to open or close.

JS: What’s the difference between window restoration and window repair?

AH: In full restoration we pull the windows out of their openings, we bring them back to our shop, we take all the paint off of them and do whatever repairs are necessary and then fully reglaze and repaint them and put them back in. It's a very long, time-consuming process. It's about 20 to 24 hours per window to do.

In a repair situation, it could be anything where it's replacing broken ropes, replacing glass, adding weather stripping, but we don't tend to remove all the paint and do the repairs.

Typically in a full restoration, either the window is falling apart or someone is doing a whole house renovation and they want the windows as sparkling as they were 100 years ago.

The vast majority of our customers are just doing repairs.

JS: How do you charge for a job?

AH: It's basically estimating the number of labor hours involved because all of our work is really just labor. We have some materials, but the majority of the cost of it is labor. For example to replace all of the ropes in a window — and there are four ropes in a window — is about an hour of labor so it would be about $75. If we were to do a full restoration, it's like 20 to 24 hours per window, so those get expensive.

JS: What kind of windows can be repaired?

AH: Almost anything made before 1960 can be repaired.

JS: What types of problems are associated with newer windows?

AH: The newer windows, especially the ones with the double-insulated glass, the seal breaks and they fog up. It's a very common problem. You have to order a new factory-sealed glass unit, which is almost as expensive as getting a whole new window.

Also the construction of the windows is not the good mortise and tenon construction of the older windows. If a corner is rotted on a newer window, there's nothing we can repair. It's just gone. Whereas on the older ones, you'll have bits and pieces of it that are still there that can be put back together.

Also the quality of the wood for the older ones is worth restoring. The newer ones, it's like they're made of cardboard. I mean, we could repair them, but why bother?

JS: When should a homeowner consider window restoration or repair?

AH: Typically if they're finding that their windows are hard to operate, that's when they usually call us about fixing them and we can usually correct it before it gets to a full restoration.

However. if they bought a house and one of the windows is propped up by shear luck, well then it needs a full restoration.

A lot of homeowners are getting proactive about doing home maintenance and doing preventative maintenance. So when they see problems that comes crashing down and the glass is broken, they call us then we can talk about adding weather stripping and upgrading from chord to chain — all things that will make further maintenance down the line much easier.

JS: What factors must homeowners weigh when deciding between restoration and replacement?

AH: Really right now it's coming down to an issue of cost. It's much cheaper to fix windows than it is to replace them. We just did a house that probably has 1950s- 1960s-era Anderson windows that are in tough shape, but they're not falling apart. They're OK. It was $5,000 to replace them and the repairs we did to get them so the cranks now work, they close fully, they can be locked fully, they're reglazed — they're ready for painting, basically — was around $500. The homeowner was thrilled! It's kind of like, that was a no-brainer.

We can do some simple fixes that are generally around $200 to $300 per window and the window will last another 100 years. Versus replacing a window that will cost three times that much and last 10 to 15 years.

Everyone who does [window] restoration prices differently. We tend to price by the number of panes of glass in a window. If you have large single pane over a large singe pane, which we call a one over one, those are really inexpensive.

When it gets to the ones that have little tiny squares of glass — where you have like 18 to 24 panes in a window — that gets really, really, really expensive. It is so much labor. You just have to imagine sanding and scraping all those little corners. It's like we don't have four corners any more, we have 24 times four corners.

JS: Can you repair new windows?

AH: Sadly, that is the problem with the new windows. They are designed to be replaced, not repaired. We have done some repairs [on newer homes]. We did a house that was seven years old that all of the springs that hold the window up and down on the sides — every single one was broken.

Luckily, they were able to get replacement channels from the window company. We put them all in. They may only last another seven years, but it's worth asking the window manufacturer if they have pieces and parts like that so they can at least be kept working.

But, when it gets to the point where the glass is fogged for example, you might as well just get a replacement window for a replacement window.

JS: What are misconceptions people have about window restoration?

AH: I think the hardest one is people think [window restoration] is only for historic houses and that it must be so much more expensive than getting replacement windows.

Time and again we have heard that we're so much cheaper than replacement windows. And we work on very modest houses because people just want everything that's in the house to stay in the house. They don't want to just keep throwing things into dumpsters. They want to take a more prudent and pragmatic approach to maintaining their house.

The one that gets me the most is people saying, "My house isn't historic." It's OK! It's doesn't have to be.

JS: What can homeowners do to maintain their windows?

AH: Well, I have to say this weekend even I, who restores windows, I was really bad and I have neglected my own house's windows. So I went around and vacuumed up all the windowsills because there's a lot of dirt that collects there over the winter and all of that dirt traps water and all of that water will eventually rot the wood. Keeping the window wells clean goes a long way towards maintaining your windows.

Another thing people don't realize is that you can wax the channels that the windows run in so they run a whole lot smoother. That alone, because that's the majority of what people's complaints are — they're hard to operate — just by waxing them once a year you can make them so much easier. And that puts so much less stress on the chords so they don't break. The whole process is much better.

Cleaning and waxing. Those are my suggestions.

JS: How does the energy efficiency of a wood window compare with a replacement window?

AH: There are a number of studies. Probably the biggest one was done at the University of Vermont in like 1997 and I believe the difference in efficiency was all of about $1 per window per year — especially when you factor in the cost of the replacement windows. If an old window is well maintained with a good storm window, it is every bit as efficient as a new window.

There's currently a study being done by the National Trust for Historic Preservation, which should be published this winter. I believe they've already been very surprised at the results they've been getting testing the old windows with the new windows.

What's interesting is when people are concerned about energy efficiency, they immediately look at the windows. But, what we have heard from home energy auditors over and over again is that there are many, many more leaky areas in a house besides windows and doors.

I always strongly encourage people to get a home energy audit first before spending money on anything. Find out where the leaks are. Don't assume anything.

We had a house where the owner was complaining about the front door leaking terribly. We were about to weather strip it and they had the energy auditor in it and it turned out there was a hole in the foundation, which is where all the cold air was coming in. It was very simple to fix. Thank goodness we didn't waste our time putting weather stripping on the door when that wasn't really the problem.

When people are really concerned about energy efficiency, don't assume anything. You may feel a draft in one place, but it could totally be coming from a different source.

Get the energy audit first, then attack the problem.

JS: How can a person make their wood windows more energy efficient?

AH: The simplest one is making sure the window is fully closed and locked. A lot of times we'll find the upper sash has fallen down and it gets painted into that position. So if the homeowner feels so inclined, they can free that up and get it pushed all the way up where it should be.

We've seen people put little blocks of wood to hold it in place, sticks to hold it in place — whatever it takes — but get the top one all the way up and get the lower one all the way down and get a good lock on it.

People think that the lock is for security, but the lock is really part of the weather tightness of the window. It pulls everything together and holds it off against the draft. That's a $14 fix that people should definitely make. I go into houses all the time that don't have locks and I'm like, "You have to understand, it's part of the weather stripping system and security."

JS: Tell me about the “green” aspect of older, wood windows.

AH: Comparing energy efficiency with old windows versus new windows, you have to look at the whole life cycle of what goes into them. With the old windows, you have wood that's probably 100-plus years old. It's already been milled. It's already been shaped and formed and installed. Versus a new window that has to have factory-made components so you have a tremendous energy difference between the old windows and the new ones to begin with. Then, if you're only going to get a small bit of energy efficiency improvement by installing a new window, and you're losing an old window, then we're really making a negative effect on the environment.

For saving a few kilowatt-hours, we're spending a tremendous amount of kilowatt-hours to manufacture a window, install it and throw away the old window. The whole green cycle of the production of windows and the maintenance of windows — if you look at the whole picture, then keeping your old windows is much more energy efficient.

JS: How can someone find a window restoration specialist?

AH: Certainly looking at companies like [Angie's List], looking in the yellow pages and asking around at your historic commissions.

I would ask a builder because a lot of times they do know of us or a historic commission — people who are involved with saving old houses. And then just the basic resources like the Yellow Pages or an online directory of some sort.

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